talk to me about center-pinning

[Brute]

Well, it's nothing at all like fishing with a fly rod, nor really a replacement for it. Just a different way to present a float+jig or float+whatever setup in a river. Gives you a drag-free drift, with the most direct possible connection to the terminal tackle vs having excess line on the water with other methods.

It's a cooler looking and harder to cast baitcaster. Also no drag so a fun fight.

It was the original "spinning" reel, before the Mitchell. If you didn't want to use a baitcaster or a fly rod, it was your other main option. It wasn't just used with a bobber, people threw spoons and other lures with it. I'm sure the main reason it fell out of favor was it's 1:1 retrieval rate.

It sounds to me that a spinning rod setup would be easier and accomplish the same thing...I think I need to watch a few videos

 

[Pink Nighty]

It sounds to me that a spinning rod setup would be easier and accomplish the same thing...I think I need to watch a few videos

From my understanding, the advantages over a spinning rod are the drag free drift which allows you to stay in the same seam for longer periods. A spinning rod with an open bail will still catch and pull the float towards you. The other advantage appears to be accuracy of cast because of the control you have over the line and a longer rod.

 

[DerekWhipple]

It sounds to me that a spinning rod setup would be easier and accomplish the same thing...I think I need to watch a few videos

When you are dead drifting with a spinning rod, you have the bail open, and line is being pulled out off the reel. The line is just dumping off with slack though. If your bobber goes down, you have to engage the bail, reel in your slack, and then set the hook.

With the centerpin rod, the line is being pulled off the reel with almost no resistance (assuming you keep it well maintained). This allows you to keep the line almost tight to the bobber while not inducing drag. When the bobber goes down, you just stop the spool from spinning and set the hook. You don't need to engage anything on the reel, and you don't need to reel in slack.

Think about the advantages of bobber fishing with a bait caster vs a spinning reel. I would say a centerpin reel is like a baitcaster in terms of advantages. The spinning reel is easier to use and cheaper though.

 

[Evan B]

When you are dead drifting with a spinning rod, you have the bail open, and line is being pulled out off the reel. The line is just dumping off with slack though. If your bobber goes down, you have to engage the bail, reel in your slack, and then set the hook.

With the centerpin rod, the line is being pulled off the reel with almost no resistance (assuming you keep it well maintained). This allows you to keep the line almost tight to the bobber while not inducing drag. When the bobber goes down, you just stop the spool from spinning and set the hook. You don't need to engage anything on the reel, and you don't need to reel in slack.

Think about the advantages of bobber fishing with a bait caster vs a spinning reel. I would say a centerpin reel is like a baitcaster in terms of advantages. The spinning reel is easier to use and cheaper though.

Baitcaster and centerpin can mostly do the same job as far as a drift, with a slight edge the the centerpin for the drag-free part. The baitcaster wins in the retrieve department, though. By quite a long shot. 1:1 is fun, and centerpins are super satisfying to cast and drift, so it's just a matter of what's going to give you more enjoyment. Think of it as something that has an art to the casting much like learning spey does.

 

[Sam Roffe]

I agree with Evan. I believe for ease of float fishing a good bait caster and long rod is great. You can just fish. I don't like spinning reels for float fishing. I just don't feel I have the control.

But, I do like using a center pin rod and reel, it's not as easy, but sure is fun playing a hot steelhead on a drag free spool.

 

[iggie]

Well, it's nothing at all like fishing with a fly rod, nor really a replacement for it. Just a different way to present a float+jig or float+whatever setup in a river. Gives you a drag-free drift, with the most direct possible connection to the terminal tackle vs having excess line on the water with other methods.

If you BC cast it doesn't cause line twist like spinning does.

 

[Evan B]

If you BC cast it doesn't cause line twist like spinning does.

BC Cast, Wallis Cast, etc etc. Any of the ones that get the reel spinning first will keep your line straight.

 

[SilverFly]

Has anyone tried pinning or have experience with an old Winona reel? Grandpa gave me one and i've been debating what to do with it. They use to use them on float setups for salmon and steelhead. Casting should be ok? I figure it would probably pair pretty nice with some 70s lamiglas. View attachment 130045

Timely question. I was going through boxes in the garage last week in preparation for moving and found my Dad's old Winona. Looks just like yours!

 

[wanderingrichard]

The comparison of bait casters to centre's pins and long rods reminded me that that's what hydro float was made for. Long line mending during a drift.
Too bad it was another good idea that didn't work out.

 

[NWFshrman]

The biggest issue with centerpin rods for the PNW is length and line class ratio. The best blanks ever made were the 3113 from sage! But the availability and cost was another issue. I helped get into production a 11’4” 2pc 8-17lb blank with Stryker rods, it was mimicked off of the Sage 3113. Most 4pc fly rods do not make good centerpin rods, nor are they heavy enough for our PNW rivers. When I centerpin I want a heavy rod that’s going to be able to cast a 3/4oz float with ease and have the backbone to hold a stout fish from running me out of the hole.

I like to run high vis mono either sufix 17lb tangerine orange if I can find it or Izor 20lb.
I like to coat the first 30-40ft with a floatant to make mending easier


The pictures are of the Stryker 1144 2pc. I have them build it because I don’t have the tooling to cut the carbon grips.

 

[Evan B]

The biggest issue with centerpin rods for the PNW is length and line class ratio. The best blanks ever made were the 3113 from sage! But the availability and cost was another issue. I helped get into production a 11’4” 2pc 8-17lb blank with Stryker rods, it was mimicked off of the Sage 3113. Most 4pc fly rods do not make good centerpin rods, nor are they heavy enough for our PNW rivers. When I centerpin I want a heavy rod that’s going to be able to cast a 3/4oz float with ease and have the backbone to hold a stout fish from running me out of the hole.

I like to run high vis mono either sufix 17lb tangerine orange if I can find it or Izor 20lb.
I like to coat the first 30-40ft with a floatant to make mending easier


The pictures are of the Stryker 1144 2pc. I have them build it because I don’t have the tooling to cut the carbon grips.

Yeah, I ran in to the same thing when I was getting in to this back in like the 2008-2010 era. All the rods I tried were long, wet noodles. I eventually just ended up using a 7wt switch rod and using electrical tape to attach my reel way up the cork for proper placement.

I eventually ended up with the ECHO PIN rod, which is built on the TR 7wt spey blank. Still longer than necessary at 13', but has the right power and backbone to do what we do up here.

 

[DanielOcean]

The G Loomis GLX 11 footer is the rod I enjoyed the most. As others have said, most are too noodle like. For example the St Croix ones in my opinion are not fun to cast.
the GLX however is super light and snappy. I think Evan was also impressed with it but not the 600.00 price tag. By the way I sold that rod, and have been kicking myself to this day.

 

[DerekWhipple]

The biggest issue with centerpin rods for the PNW is length and line class ratio. The best blanks ever made were the 3113 from sage! But the availability and cost was another issue. I helped get into production a 11’4” 2pc 8-17lb blank with Stryker rods, it was mimicked off of the Sage 3113. Most 4pc fly rods do not make good centerpin rods, nor are they heavy enough for our PNW rivers. When I centerpin I want a heavy rod that’s going to be able to cast a 3/4oz float with ease and have the backbone to hold a stout fish from running me out of the hole.

I like to run high vis mono either sufix 17lb tangerine orange if I can find it or Izor 20lb.
I like to coat the first 30-40ft with a floatant to make mending easier


The pictures are of the Stryker 1144 2pc. I have them build it because I don’t have the tooling to cut the carbon grips.

FYI - Berry's Bait and Tackle and Sea Run up in BC still sell Sage gear rods, at least as of a few years ago. Some other shops might sell them as well. I wouldn't call them cheap, but you can get a custom wrapped sage blank for the cost of a mid-range fly rod.

 

[Westcoast]

Lots of good rods out there these days. I wouldn’t go much over 11’ for our west coast rivers. Rods from gloomis and blanks from bastion and nfc are my favourites.

 

[fatbillybob]

With CP are you restricted to fishing nymphs eggs and bait? can you drift a dry fly say several feet from the float used as weight to cast or can you work a streamer somehow?

 

[clarkman]

I've done exactly nothing since starting this thread, but still following as I'm strongly considering going this route for winter steelhead nymphing to go with swinging/stripping with my SH.

 

[G_Smolt]

With CP are you restricted to fishing nymphs eggs and bait? can you drift a dry fly say several feet from the float used as weight to cast or can you work a streamer somehow?

It's important to remember the reel and fishpole are just tools, and their applications and uses are limited only by the imagination and ability of the user.

 

[Harry3]

All the center pinners I know will out fish all the fly guys where I fish. While I do both, I still try with the fly set up. I'm trying sink tips, sinking fly line but the centerpin gets the, eggs, flies, beads, waxworms, wooly buggers, etc down very quickly, with a drag free drift.

 

[Evan B]

I've done exactly nothing since starting this thread, but still following as I'm strongly considering going this route for winter steelhead nymphing to go with swinging/stripping with my SH.

I know a guy who may be down for a pin trip

 

[DerekWhipple]

With CP are you restricted to fishing nymphs eggs and bait? can you drift a dry fly say several feet from the float used as weight to cast or can you work a streamer somehow?

You can fish spoons/spinners/colorado blades with them, with or without a bobber.

I've done exactly nothing since starting this thread, but still following as I'm strongly considering going this route for winter steelhead nymphing to go with swinging/stripping with my SH.

It's way better than a flyrod for fishing nymphs under a bobber. You can cover a lot more water.