floating line question

dep

dep

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howdy folks:

my dry lines are pretty old and the tips/ends don't really float as well as they should. but I am hoping to get a little extra life out of them.
the question:
can I cut the last 12 inches or so off and seal the cut end and not jeopardize the line?

thanks-dp
 
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A foot shouldn't make that much difference, but I'd start with cutting back only a 1" or 2" and try that first as well as cleaning and treating the line.
Test it out to determine if you feel you need to cut it back further. Measure twice, cut once. ;)
SF
 
dep said:
howdy folks:

my dry lines are pretty old and the tips/ends don't really float as well as they should. but I am hoping to get a little extra life out of them.
the question:
can I cut the last 12 inches or so off and seal the cut end and not jeopardize the line?

thanks-dp
Click to expand...

Yes you can. The ideal way to do the deed is to cut it at all extreme angle and get some polyolifin tubing. It's just clear fancy shrink tube. Get a loop mated up nicely with your bevel cut inside the tubing and heat with a heat gun and melt the loop onto a factory like end. You should be good for another thirty thousand miles. I've never broken one of my own loops and have tested them on some of the toughest snags in the river.
 
Caveat: if it is an old line, it *may* have a monofilament core. Monocore lines are notoriously difficult to weld, as the heat required to melt the coating will significantly weaken the core.

If it's not mono, weld away.

Additionally, I would inspect the front of the line for checking / cracks before welding / attempting to fix. If the cracks/checks extend into the nose taper, it may be time for a new flystring.
 
Or, after cutting, tie a nail knot with the leader butt onto the flyline (and cover with a smooth bead of Loon UV) for a vastly more elegant and functional line/leader connection. Loops are an abomination.. 😆
 
Superglue seals the ends of fly lines very nicely. Most lines have a level section, and you really won’t notice if you cut off a foot or two. Then tie your nail knot with a new tapered leader, and seal the end and you are done.
 
well, if it's Rio it's never gonna weld. If it's SA, it may weld. If it's Airflo, it will weld. Corrtland? never tried since most of my Cortland lines are monocore. Wait, you're fishing for trout? just nail knot and call it good, even a shitty nail knot will be fine for trout. Also, knot sense works VERY well in case you're worried about things sliding through the guides as they should.
 
Before you cut your line, try to clean/lubricate with a line dressing. The problem you have may be related to micro cracks in the outer coating of the line and dressing may seal the line on a temp basis and give you another season.
 
fan of braided loops using Guidebrod, tied on with a couple of 10# nail knots evenly spaced along the 6" butt, finished off with a dab of UV to smooth the knots...easy and quick, bulletproof, flexible, ...never had one fail even with big Kings raising havoc
 
I use a small bit of Bio-strike right where leader and line come together, also a bit of fly floatation rubbed on the line helps.
 
Sound like you've decided you're not there yet, and lots of good solutions above, but I just got a new Peach replacing an ancient one and I was really pleased with the way the new line performed. For me, the $$ were worth it, as at this point unless I do something stupid I'll never need another.
 
I still just nail knot a section to the line, tie a loop on the other end for your leader to loop to.. Don't believe this has ever failed me.
 
Definitely clean your line regardless of what you do, I just use warm water on a towel, pinch around the line as you strip it off, maybe do the last 15’ a few times. Then I use the same towel with some mucillen on it (the green stuff) reel it back on the reel using the same technique. Once again concentrating on that last 15’. That simple, cheap little maintenance will revitalize a floating line noticeably.
 
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