What's in your vise?

I figured I should probably add a mostly white one to the mix.

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PXL_20230930_170101646~2.jpg
 
Copper-and-ASB-1080.jpg


Copper and ASB

Anti-Static Bag

Hook - Curved
Bead - Copper brass or tungsten
Thread - White
Breathers - White uni stretch
Ribbing - Copper wire
Body - Tying thread and a strip of anti-static bag
Hot spots - Red or orange marker
 
Norm Frechette said:
Copper-and-ASB-1080.jpg


Copper and ASB

Anti-Static Bag

Hook - Curved
Bead - Copper brass or tungsten
Thread - White
Breathers - White uni stretch
Ribbing - Copper wire
Body - Tying thread and a strip of anti-static bag
Hot spots - Red or orange marker
Click to expand...
When you can make chironomids look that sexy, it means you're good.

Your precision is truly impressive, on all your patterns. Simplicity turned art!
 
Rusty-Nail-1080.jpg


Rusty Nail

John Kent

Hook - Curved
Bead - Copper colored brass or tung
Thread - Wine/red
Breathers - Midge Gill yarn
Rib - Wine/red wire
Body - Mirage tinsel

Variation

Hook - Curved
Bead - White brass or tungsten
Thread - Wine/red
Rib - Wine/red wire
Body - Mirage tinsel
 
Scottp said:
Grey Drake Crippler

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hook - WFC Model 6 #10
thread - Uni 8/0 rusty dun
tag - medium tinsel opal
rib - brassie wire brown
body - Ice Dub hare’s ear
hackle - dun
1st shoulder - chukar partridge dun body
2nd shoulder - partridge

Regards,
Scott
Click to expand...
Blows me away that you're tying these one handed, that ice dub color within the hackle is really a nice bit of pop.
 
Scottp said:
Grey Drake Crippler

53225253580_51e89617a5_c.jpg


53225253570_0c880f252d_c.jpg


53225060773_ae5976764d_c.jpg


hook - WFC Model 6 #10
thread - Uni 8/0 rusty dun
tag - medium tinsel opal
rib - brassie wire brown
body - Ice Dub hare’s ear
hackle - dun
1st shoulder - chukar partridge dun body
2nd shoulder - partridge

Regards,
Scott
Click to expand...
Question for you Scottp if you don't mind. Your hackle work, both palmered and collared etc., always maintains a nice convex shape from front to back, is there a trick or method to that which is easily explained? I sometimes achieve that and more often don't and am really not sure why I get one result or the other.
 
SKYKO said:
Your hackle work, both palmered and collared etc., always maintains a nice convex shape from front to back, is there a trick or method to that which is easily explained?
Click to expand...

Thanks. Body hackle on the muddlers, Cripplers, Octopuses, Stimulators and other flies are palmered shiny side out, front to back. I try to wiggle the rib through, moving forward and trying to trap as few fibers as possible then give everything a good scrubbing with a Velcro brush, stroking the hackle to the rear of the fly. For shoulders and collars, I grasp the feather by the tip, stroke the fibers back, then run my scissors blade along the stem, tie it in by the tip and wrap with moistened fingers to get the feather to lay properly; it doesn’t always work (some stuff like golden pheasant red and gold body feathers, chukar and especially waterfowl can be a pain to keep in line) but usually it comes out okay. Like everything else, a little practice helps.

SKYKO said:
Blows me away that you're tying these one handed, that ice dub color within the hackle is really a nice bit of pop.
Click to expand...

I can use both hands tying, just limited in what the right can do; had to adjust height/orientation of tying station to accommodate decreased range of motion I currently have

Regards,
Scott
 
Two-Toned-BC-Chironomid-1080.jpg


Two Toner BC Chironomid

Hook - Curved
Bead - Nickel/silver
Breathers - White uni stretch
Thread - Red
Under-Body - Red tying thread and Mirage tinsel
Over-Body - Synthetic Tapered Peacock Quill - Transparent Gray
Thorax - Orange ice dubbing

FlyFishFood
 
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