Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Any idea if the Noco Genius 10 is worth it over the cheaper Noco Genius 1?Also got a Noco Genius 10 charger.
Never mind. Spelled out pretty well in this chart:Any idea if the Noco Genius 10 is worth it over the cheaper Noco Genius 1?
I started out with the smallest battery box (shotgun shell box) that would fit my SLA battery. I used a couple of pieces of plastic in the sides to keep the battery from moving around. I was lucky that I didn't have much choice and had extra room. When I added a PWM controller, I was able to the controller, disconnect, battery tester, etc. all in the same box. Can't say it was good planning, but it did work out!On that same note, has anyone found battery boxes that fit these lifepo4 batteries? They seem smaller than SLA battery boxes. Do you just use one of those and let the extra space be extra space?


I'm confused as to your unit saying it's a wireless control yet I see a wire. I did a quick search but didn't find that particular control.I started out with the smallest battery box (shotgun shell box) that would fit my SLA battery. I used a couple of pieces of plastic in the sides to keep the battery from moving around. I was lucky that I didn't have much choice and had extra room. When I added a PWM controller, I was able to the controller, disconnect, battery tester, etc. all in the same box. Can't say it was good planning, but it did work out!
Ken
View attachment 12649
View attachment 12650
I do somehow enjoy that there is a device that clearly says "wireless" with an equally obvious wire coming out of it.Wireless Trolling Pro was the name of the website for LS Engineering LLC and he may have had i wireless controller at one time.
Yeah his marketing and product naming selection left something to be desired. I think his original controller may have been a wireless model, but he quickly expanded to making both wired and wireless models. My hand controller is indeed all hardwired as you correctly surmised from the photo. I figure with wired model decreases the chance of "operator error" and dropping a wireless controller overboard! And it is cheaper, which my Scottish Grandmother would approve of!I'm confused as to your unit saying it's a wireless control yet I see a wire. I did a quick search but didn't find that particular control.
It's too bad that he's no longer in business as it looks like a simple plug and play unit. What was the cost?Yeah his marketing and product naming selection left something to be desired. I think his original controller may have been a wireless model, but he quickly expanded to making both wired and wireless models. My hand controller is indeed all hardwired as you correctly surmised from the photo. I figure with wired model decreases the chance of "operator error" and dropping a wireless controller overboard! And it is cheaper, which my Scottish Grandmother would approve of!
As Mark pointed out, it appears that he has closed his business. I also experienced almost non-existent communications and a pre-Covid delivery that was 2 or 3 times as long originally promised. It's too bad his business/communications skills were so lacking. It's a really nice compact unit that works as advertised. I'm going into my 4th season with it and it has performed flawlessly with a Minn Kota C2 30.
Yeah, I think it is a nice "fit-for-purpose" package. Two wires to the motor and two to the battery and you're done. Nice, functional hand controller with a generous amount of cable. The bulge on the back plate is a heat sink. I just put the heat sink side towards the outside of my battery box, away from the battery itself. I don't have any other provisions for cooling and it is working fine, although I don't use the motor trolling, only re-locating.It's too bad that he's no longer in business as it looks like a simple plug and play unit. What was the cost?



Thanks for posting the wiring diagram. I like the idea of a dc breaker over a fuse.Yeah, I think it is a nice "fit-for-purpose" package. Two wires to the motor and two to the battery and you're done. Nice, functional hand controller with a generous amount of cable. The bulge on the back plate is a heat sink. I just put the heat sink side towards the outside of my battery box, away from the battery itself. I don't have any other provisions for cooling and it is working fine, although I don't use the motor trolling, only re-locating.
I've seen pictures of a similar Minn Kota variable speed controller, but never came across any place you could order the controller by itself. I thought it would be convenient to use the Minn Kota controller with one of the Amazon/Ebay PWM boxes, if you could get the Minn Kota controller for a reasonable price.
View attachment 12713
View attachment 12714
View attachment 12715
I like the DC breaker as well. I think I got that idea from a kayak forum. The last thing I do before launching is close the breaker and the first thing I do when I land is open the breaker. That functionality is more useful than the overload protection in my mind. While the WTP hand controller is really functional, it doesn't really have much resistance between forward and reverse. I found it was very easy to nudge it off the neutral position when moving around in the boat during launching and landing.Thanks for posting the wiring diagram. I like the idea of a dc breaker over a fuse.













