How do you peg the indicator?

Tried it out peg down today, and it works just fine, and the peg does stop the float from going below. But like most other folks I tend to use the peg (or just the black spot) as a bonus feature as it gives me more subtle clues.
20220413_pegonbottom.jpg
And setting the peg down will not prevent you from getting started on practicing your other hobbies as well.
20220413_095121.jpg
 
Shawn Seeger said:
Good morning and yes you are correct. I got in a nylon tub. The "sleeve" stops the breakdown of the inside foam. Also, these "hard shell" corkies don't break if in a lightning swing and miss the indicator hits your rod, boat, oar or sunglasses.

View attachment 11504
View attachment 11505

And I keep my loop below the top of the peg.

View attachment 11506

(PS this indicator was for example only, I don't like this color)
Click to expand...
So, where do you get the pegs that you use for the corkies that don’t include them?
 
How hard does one set the hook ? This will pop the pin or the fish. The guy i fished with last week was going for a home run. And pulling that lil fly outa the mouth. I wondered about the pin then.
 
Tombraider said:
How hard does one set the hook ? This will pop the pin or the fish. The guy i fished with last week was going for a home run. And pulling that lil fly outa the mouth. I wondered about the pin then.
Click to expand...
It's more quick than hard that works for me. Wrist flip, tip near water, kinda up and out to the side. Too much arm pulls the hook free. If I get the rod tip up around my waist I have trouble because of the sag, and I end up using a lot of arm to try to get the slack out. Same if I get a wind belly. But often a hit comes after a mend, so mend often.
The release pressure is adjusted by how hard the peg is inserted. So set it with the peg barely in, then grab line above and below pull apart. Get a feel for it. Set a bit tighter and repeat. Feel how it reacts. Then pick a setting (guess) that will hold with your cast and try it out. You'll figure it out after a few fish. I err on the tight side, that's why my pegs end up so deep in the foam. It seldom releases with a small fish but I can grab the leader, or release the float by hand. It always pops with a better fish. Like Matt said, if it's tight, it won't release if you dip the backcast, but you don't want it too tight.
 
Last edited:
Creatch’r said:
Has anyone tried painting the pegs? I also like it peg up but would be cool to get a color I could see better. Sometimes setting on the little tick of the peg is really the ticket.
Click to expand...
I have not, but the black shows up against those colors I've used so far well. As long as I have my glasses on I've found I can see that black peg fine, and if I can't I've cast too far to get a consistently good hookset regardless.
 
Creatch’r said:
Has anyone tried painting the pegs? I also like it peg up but would be cool to get a color I could see better. Sometimes setting on the little tick of the peg is really the ticket.
Click to expand...

Painted some of my old, chipped up red ones with hot pink nail polish. Worked fine but there are probably better types of paint for the job.
SF
 
Eastside said:
So, where do you get the pegs that you use for the corkies that don’t include them?
Click to expand...

I found this package once at Walmart. I really like the pegs and they are a little longer and have a smaller taper at the end, 1/8 - 3.1mm. But I got all the floats that were split (on purpose) and I didn't like that. But I got 36 pegs ($8.99 for package) so roughly .25 cents each.

IMG_20210128_095544170_2.jpg

Then I read and met @Irafly (THANK YOU) and he told me about Floats Unlimited I have bought bulk pegs now. (In top image with red arrow) They are shorter and thicker at the bottom taper, 5/32 - 4mm, this makes for a tighter fit, so you have to get used to seeing the proper tension. But when bought in bulk they are only. 05 cents a peg and you should be set for a LONG time.
 
Peg, we don't need no stinking peg........

Being a total gear nut, I have been trying these: http://www.plumbobber.com/

1649968987409.png

My reactions so far: Pricy. About $3.50 each. They cast just fine, actually rather light. Been using a Dually so one roll and zing it is all out. Have gone up to 23' below indicator. Yellow is hard to see. The "rabbit ears" will lay flat until flies reach depth, then pop up. Very sensitive, look for wiggle, leaning, or the whole thing just takes off! If it doesn't stand up, you likely have a tangle, retrieve slowly before it gets worse. Works better on a bit thicker line, gets slippery on anything under 0X. If doesn't release, just give a little tug on the line at rod tip, and point rod a bit toward fish when doing this. Always comes free. Use bobber stoppers above, to mark depth, and a second one below that keeps the indicator safely out of the net, like four or five feet up. This helps a lot in the macramé avoidance. They do seem to like to spin around your rod when not in use. There is no peg to lose. If a breakoff, will just float, go get it before a fish does.

Ron
 
I'm gonna throw this here, bear with me. I used @Shawn Seeger idea to sleeve the float. Used zap a gap to set a small piece of the wife's aquarium hose in the beat up bottom end of a float. It's a bit tight so it holds super, and released well.
20220415_savedfloat.jpg
I rigged the 4wt with the float, and was going to try a sink tip on the new 5wt. Got over the hill and to the steep pitch on the other side, same place rigs were stuck before, and a young man had his truck and travel trailer jack knifed in (sort of) the road. His buddy at least warned me enough before. I was going to say something really snarky about time to go around and gas, but I just nodded and backed out a few hundred yards. Soon I was thanking God it wasn't me and feeling bad for them, he was fucked.
So going down I thought it was the last day I could set foot in moving water for awhile, maybe I could find a cold little trout or a whitefish. Running what I brung was not a problem, fishing floats in rivers is in my skill set, just a new bobber, and I figured a 4 was fine for the size I expected. Since I was already rigged and only had 2 lake boxes, I gave the little leaches in 14 and 16 a go.
20220415_124709.jpg
I was really outmatched for two of this ones friends. Holly shit. One broke at the fly, one at the tippet to ring. So I didn't loose a float to the river. And I really liked how easy it was to change depth.
20220415_fish.jpg
 
Shawn Seeger said:
I found this package once at Walmart. I really like the pegs and they are a little longer and have a smaller taper at the end, 1/8 - 3.1mm. But I got all the floats that were split (on purpose) and I didn't like that. But I got 36 pegs ($8.99 for package) so roughly .25 cents each.

View attachment 11652

Then I read and met @Irafly (THANK YOU) and he told me about Floats Unlimited I have bought bulk pegs now. (In top image with red arrow) They are shorter and thicker at the bottom taper, 5/32 - 4mm, this makes for a tighter fit, so you have to get used to seeing the proper tension. But when bought in bulk they are only. 05 cents a peg and you should be set for a LONG time.
Click to expand...

I use those E-Z Trout floats all the time. Grab a frosty bev, sit down and glue'em. A bag will last a few seasons.
I'll gently peg the bottom so it all doesnt end up below the swivel, and keep the loop under the top of the peg. Works for me...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top