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That lead buck was the biggest-bodied Vancouver Island blacktail (not crossed wih mulies as with some coastal inlet deer) I'd ever seen..probably over 200 lbs.

Just came across a few pics from my old hunting days. Hunting was a natural fit with my early career as a forest engineer, being very familiar with the areas where deer would be found, and I could run up and down the hills all day, as that's what my job involved anyway. I was able to do a lot...

My wife and I have Rad 6 Plus e-bikes, mine with step-over, hers with step-through frame. We love them. If I were to buy again, I would also go with the step-through frame for easier mounting/dismounting. (The old idea about step-through being a girls' bike doesn't apply to these) They would...

Good idea !...I pick up aluminum tart baking cups at the Dollar Store for mixing epoxy. A word to all: NEVER use a silicon cup, or syringe, when mixing wrap epoxy. It does weird things to the finish, including not fully curing. Aluminum is the best way to go.

I epoxy a bolt shank (head cut off) into the butt of my DIY reamers...saves the drill chuck from eating up the reamer.

You haven't said whether you need prescription glasses. I don't and have used Solar Shield wraparound polarized sunglasses, I believe made by Foster Grant. They're inexpensive, at under $30...Which isn't why I use them...Fishing buddies put me onto them and they do everything I need.

In an age of graphite rods, plastic coated lines, fluorocarbon leaders, mylar/foam/synthetic fly materials...ain't no "purists" round here....;)

Yes. I use a type 6 full sink line, 5-6' tippet. A slow strip pulls the fly down, then it bobs back up between strips.

I've had good results with this pattern. Rather than doing oversize booby eyes, I downsize them more in proportion to an actual DF nymph and do a wrap of craft foam around the shank, before over-wrapping with body material (ie: dubbing/chenille, wire, etc) Dollarstore flip-flop, hole punch...