Brian in OR.
Life of the Party
Not a fan of drift boats for strictly lakes. Maybe an alternative could be a Koffler RMT or a Spring Creek Hopper II....
Looking at Drift Boats
- Thread starter offensivename
- Start date
Still looking and still trying to understand value and what is reasonable. Saw this one of FB and figured I'd use it as a for example:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1408950667281682/
2008 Clackacraft FFB drift boat
Very nice drift boat package, ready to hit the water today.This clacka has been well maintained and the sale includes Cataract oars, anchor system, rod holders, and the trailer.Trailer is galvanized, in nice shape, with good tires and wheel bearings. Lights all work, and tows like a dream.
Not a lot of super detailed pictures but I'll attach one for the Facebook disinclined (don't blame you one bit)
The asking on this one is $6k. Assuming that theres nothing glaringly wrong like gashes in the fiberglass or a missing front of the bow (there are boats on FB with both those problems) is this high? a deal? Look out something is obviously wrong if thats the price?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1408950667281682/
2008 Clackacraft FFB drift boat
Very nice drift boat package, ready to hit the water today.This clacka has been well maintained and the sale includes Cataract oars, anchor system, rod holders, and the trailer.Trailer is galvanized, in nice shape, with good tires and wheel bearings. Lights all work, and tows like a dream.
Not a lot of super detailed pictures but I'll attach one for the Facebook disinclined (don't blame you one bit)
The asking on this one is $6k. Assuming that theres nothing glaringly wrong like gashes in the fiberglass or a missing front of the bow (there are boats on FB with both those problems) is this high? a deal? Look out something is obviously wrong if thats the price?
SSPey
loco alto!
Most driftboat users near me want pedestal seats everywhere and transom space for a gas outboard - features that fetch higher prices. The trailer on this one might be budget, bolt together with plastic fenders (?), swing tongue (check integrity), but could be perfectly fine for the use.
My last boat- a ‘96 Hyde high side had a removable front bench that could accommodate one or two seats. Being removable, the floor below had a pedestal base permanently attached that when I pulled the bench out could run a single seat on the pedestal opening up the interior space. This was a really nice option for winter versus summer fishing and keeping extra gear stored dry and out of the way.
My new-to-me ‘23 Clack big eddy has two front box pedestals….they can be bolted down side by side for two guys and still has a small narrow passage between or a single box can be mounted in the center. I really think the flexibility is a worthwhile option to seek out in whatever you get if budget allows.
Also- i had a 3.5hp Tohatsu long shaft outboard for the old Hyde. Ran great the couple times a year I used it on the sound or in lakes but eventually borrowed a buddies 55lb trolling motor to test out…it ran just as well as the gas motor and was quieter, cheaper and more convenient.
Morning,
All around that looks like a decent deal. Appears to be in good shape and well cared for. Very nice looking set up IMHO.
The trailer looks pretty solid. If those fenders are plastic you might spend some time asking why.
I dont know anything about a swing tongue so maybe someone here can add some insight.
That back seat/casting platform is nice. It would be great if you plan to do a lot of fishing from back there. If its mostly you and one other person, its probably overkill with a loss of storage area. Maybe its removable?
Call Clacka and ask them the worth.
Fiberglass is quieter and lighter than aluminum. Wood is gorgeous but high maintenance. Aluminum is good for doughballs like me who are just hard on outdoor hobby products.
Enjoy the search.
Happy 2026
Bob
All around that looks like a decent deal. Appears to be in good shape and well cared for. Very nice looking set up IMHO.
The trailer looks pretty solid. If those fenders are plastic you might spend some time asking why.
I dont know anything about a swing tongue so maybe someone here can add some insight.
That back seat/casting platform is nice. It would be great if you plan to do a lot of fishing from back there. If its mostly you and one other person, its probably overkill with a loss of storage area. Maybe its removable?
Call Clacka and ask them the worth.
Fiberglass is quieter and lighter than aluminum. Wood is gorgeous but high maintenance. Aluminum is good for doughballs like me who are just hard on outdoor hobby products.
Enjoy the search.
Happy 2026
Bob
Sorry in advance for the long reply, haha. Agreed, its a good deal. I have a 2006 Clackacraft WF (had a 1982 Clack before that). There are a lot of different configurations for the Clacks, so its a toss up on finding one that meets what is needed.
- I like a walk around front bench (its a lot easier for my older parents, dog, etc. so no one has to climb over anything to move around inside the boat). You sacrifice a double front seat for a single front seat for that configuration. But makes it balance better in my opinion front to back. My old one had a double front bench and if the passengers were vastly different in weight it would lean to one side more.
- Weight Forward (WF) has a medium height side, better for moving water, but can catch the wind on lakes. I still use it with a Minkota 55 trolling motor as a lake boat, but have a front anchor to help it from spinning around in circles.
- There are also High sides (HS) or the Low Profile (LP). High sides are great in white/moving water. Keeps the water out, but makes getting in more difficult.
- LPs are great for smoother rivers and have less push side to side by the wind, but can let more water in if you get into technical water.
- The rear casting brace is nice for a rear fisher or to store items against, but is also removeable for walking around ease. Its just 4 bolts and its out.
- The swing tongue on the trailer is handy if you want to park the boat in a garage. It allows it to fold down and takes 2ish ft (depending on where the cut is) off the overall length so it can fit inside a normal parking spot.
- Fiberglass vs aluminum is a toss up. Both have positives and negatives.
- Fiberglass - Lighter for a single person to load/unload, quieter for noise reflected into the water to scare the fish, decently easy repair until water gets inside any wood and then the cores can rot. Heaters will/can melt it, so just dress warmly if you like winter fishing. Likely need to be stored under a cover (I have a cover and a tarp over mine and never had any issues).
- Aluminum - Heavier and reflects noise into water more. Can mount a larger outboard if you want. Can run a heater in the winter and not melt the boat. Does not need a cover, can jus hangout in the elements.
I agree with an earlier poster though. Find something you can take out by yourself and launch/retrieve safely alone. I have a 9' Fishcat pontoon for that. Its nice when I cannot find someone to go with me.
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Fourbtgait
Life of the Party
You are elitist though
MarshRat
Steelhead
Man, I just think at that price you could put that $$$ towards something better suited for the lakes and protected bays closer to you on Whidbey- even if it’s not your dream whaler yet. Some kind of deep v aluminum boat that you could throw a real outboard on.
6K about average price for a good condition outfitted Clack, and the trailer looks like Clack factory which are fine trailers, easily maintained. Having owned 3 Clacks, I remain a fan of them.
Unless needing to run long distances drift boats make for fine stillwater boats, their high sides and wide beam provides excellent stability for fly casting and keeping youngsters safely aboard.
I see plenty of drift boats on the lakes I favor, powered by electric or gas ob's, fishing the same areas I do across the lake from the ramp we both launched from.
Always better to own a boat that suffices for most things, than to not own a boat at all
JakerH
Smolt
I think for a first drift boat, this pkg is a splendid deal. A new Clack with these features would cost twice the asking price plus of this boat.
Just as a reference, the cover on that boat cost $600 new, and appears in great shape. The trailer is $1800- $2200.
Anything lower priced would be much less boat. My .02 cents.
Folks need something to aspire to.
I have never owned a DB and probably never will. I have been in dozens of the craft over the years when I was on guided floats both solo and with a partner
Having observed the guides it is my opinion that the most important factor in choosing a boat is the ease at which it can be recovered back onto the trailer. I have seen more than a few guides struggle with a heavy boat and manual windlass. If I were to get a boat I would look for one light enough to easily lift and would also consider a powered winch as well
Having observed the guides it is my opinion that the most important factor in choosing a boat is the ease at which it can be recovered back onto the trailer. I have seen more than a few guides struggle with a heavy boat and manual windlass. If I were to get a boat I would look for one light enough to easily lift and would also consider a powered winch as well
MarlinMark
Smolt
Kmudgn - that problem is usually a factor of the trailer not the boat. For example the bunks on my trailer are worn through the "Astro Turf" on the wood bunk and therefore create more drag on the boats bottom, making it harder to crank onto the trailer. I'm replacing with that UHMW stuff and will never have a problem again.
once you do be sure to keep the bow winch hook engaged going down any incline ramps as your boat will likely start sliding off the bunks the moment gravity beckons...mine sure wanted to after full length UHMW bunk installs
Greg Price
Steelhead
My dad and I co-owned a 1972 wooldrige 16 foot aluminum drift boat. 30 years later I still own it and love it.
He and my uncle purchased an almost new beutiful ckackacraft in the early 2000s.
The Clack advantages
1. Easier to row with flexible and golf ball type floor and rounded chines.
2. Forward rear adjustment for rowers seat to help balance boat.
3. Wide stern allowed 9.9 hp honda to wotk well.
4. Great on the go rod storage and lockable under seat compartments.
Clack disadvsntage;
1. Fiberglass too pretty. It hurt to put scratch on side when sneaker rock smashed sideswiped side
2. Pretty red paint required constant washing and waxing to keep water spots or dull from sun exposure.
When i was on the sticks I found the stress of avoiding rocks sticking out of water to make me wish we were still inoutr old, beat up aluminum drift boat.
Kind of made me feel like when dad had a metal flake fiberglass ski boat that he babied all the time.
He and my uncle purchased an almost new beutiful ckackacraft in the early 2000s.
The Clack advantages
1. Easier to row with flexible and golf ball type floor and rounded chines.
2. Forward rear adjustment for rowers seat to help balance boat.
3. Wide stern allowed 9.9 hp honda to wotk well.
4. Great on the go rod storage and lockable under seat compartments.
Clack disadvsntage;
1. Fiberglass too pretty. It hurt to put scratch on side when sneaker rock smashed sideswiped side
2. Pretty red paint required constant washing and waxing to keep water spots or dull from sun exposure.
When i was on the sticks I found the stress of avoiding rocks sticking out of water to make me wish we were still inoutr old, beat up aluminum drift boat.
Kind of made me feel like when dad had a metal flake fiberglass ski boat that he babied all the time.
JakerH
Smolt
I rowed a drift boat professionally for over 35 years. Anyone that struggles as much as you describe trailering one, has no business charging people money to be inside of it.
Banged my Clacks plenty on OR coastal rivers, missing tight lines chutes to hit a wall, sliding over rock shallows that tin DB's got hung up on. If you own a waxed and polished Clack drift boat without scratches or chips, Marty and the rest of the crew at Clackacraft would tell you to start using the damn boat properly.
