Good Fly Rod Options For Long Hours Of Blind-casting For Coho?

[jasmillo]

Whatever you have been using since we first met seems to working just fine! That rod sure has a good amount of mojo on it. You sure you want to look elsewhere .

I have two 7 weights I love for the beach. The Scott Centric and the Sage One. I bought the Centric last year for AK rivers and it has become my favorite beach coho rod. Light, not a broomstick and durable. I actually made it through a whole coho season without breaking it! I don’t think it comes in 9”6’ though.

I fish a 6 weight Sage Maverick and a 6 weight Sage Ignitor too. They also are fast, lightweight rods that are great for the beach.

I think all these rods are fairly light but I am. Or 100% sure. I never think about those things.

You know how to get ahold of me if you want to cast any of these. In fact, the same 6 weight setup I fish off the beach is what if fish 60% of the time in lakes as well.

 

[Grandpa Jim]

6wt with a fighting butt is plenty for coho, it's those heavy stinger clousers that make a 7wt easier to cast for long hours

This has also been my angst. I have a 9'6" 6 wt. Sonic that has been great for me the last 2 seasons. I've landed a number of nice coho on it and believe it can handle any ocean returning coho that I may encounter from the beach. The difficulty is that with my casting ability I am not able to effectively cast heavy stinger clousers with the Sonic 6 wt. I even considered over-lining it to try and cast the heavier offerings. I've also watched Jasmillo cast big stinger clousers and catch nice ocean returning coho on his 7 wt. Eventually I came to the conclusion that maybe I should just up-weight my rod and get a 7 wt. I can use the 6 wt. Sonic with smaller flies for the resident fish in July & August and then as ocean returning coho come in switch over to a 7 wt. to give me the ability to cast heavier flies...and with which I can still throw a small fly if needed.

I have difficulty with spending $1K on a fly rod, especially one that will get more limited use. I am also leery of buying a used "high end" rod...that reminds me of some of my experiences buying used cars. I've looked on the internet at various 7 wt. rods since my salt season ended. Last month I ended up making a decision and bought a TFO rod: TFO AXIOM II-X (TF 07 4 A2-X). It's a 9’, 7 wt. (3.4 oz.) at $429. TFO touts it as extra fast. That rod has been on the market for over 3 years...so it has a track record. It had favorable reviews from people in Florida and Louisiana fishing for snook, baby tarpon, bonefish & redfish in areas that have lots of wind to deal with. I have not fished it or cast it yet. I think it will work out fine for me but only time on the water will tell.

I have a TFO Pro 9 wt. that I bought as a B/U for my Sage Foundation 9 wt. that I use for estuary chum. I got it on sale at Cabelas for around $200 3 years ago. TFO is a Texas company but makes their rods in Korea. Buying a rod made in Korea rod bugs me but not as much as if it was made in China. I enjoy casting the TFO Pro better than the Foundation. It feels lighter in hand than the Foundation even though it is a heavier rod. It is not as fast as action as the Foundation so not as good in heavy wind. IMO, the TFO Pro also has better components, cork and finish than the Foundation. Out of the box, the TFO Axiom II-X 7 wt. looks well made and feels light in hand.

 

[Otter]

Good Afternoon Gents and Ladies-
I’m looking for input on a 9ft 7 weight or 10 ft 7 weight used almost exclusively for Summer/Fall coho off the beach. Rod weight and swing weight never meant a thing to me until last year, when I noticed my body not able to recover from two-a-day casting sessions for Coho. Especially when I’ve spent 5-6 days in a row fishing, I’ve had to take a day of rest, not because I wanted to, but because my body demanded it. I’ve been fishing a fairly heavy stick with a high rod weight AND swing weight. People in the know have told me that I need to purchase a lighter rod if I’m going to be blind casting as much as I do. I’ve been eyeing the lightest of rods, with low swing weights, but mostly they’re $800-$1000 rods. What would you recommend in the $400-$600 range? Any advice and/or opinions are welcome.

Cheers.

Jeff

Jeff, have you considered a switch rod? Using two hands will cut in half the body stress that you are feeling using only one hand.
Many (aging) beach casters I know have progressed from single hand rods in the 9'6" to 10' range, to single hand 9' rods, and then to switch rods. (Some just install a long fighting butt into an existing beach rod, which turns it into a double hander.)
Keep in mind that manufacturers of switch and Spey rods usually rate their rods 2 or 3 line weights lower than single handers. IE: A 5 wt. switch rod usually works best with lines that weigh in the 7 or 8 wt. single hand range. For example, I have a 10'8" Echo Switch that is sold as a 5 wt., and works well tossing an SA GPX WF8F. (But I like dedicated switch lines on it better, like the Snowbee Switch line, or Orvis Access Switch line.)
I really appreciate switch and Spey rod manufacturers who state their rods' line ratings in grains.

 

[Stonedfish]

This has also been my angst. I have a 9'6" 6 wt. Sonic that has been great for me the last 2 seasons. I've landed a number of nice coho on it and believe it can handle any ocean returning coho that I may encounter from the beach. The difficulty is that with my casting ability I am not able to effectively cast heavy stinger clousers with the Sonic 6 wt. I even considered over-lining it to try and cast the heavier offerings. I've also watched Jasmillo cast big stinger clousers and catch nice ocean returning coho on his 7 wt. Eventually I came to the conclusion that maybe I should just up-weight my rod and get a 7 wt. I can use the 6 wt. Sonic with smaller flies for the resident fish in July & August and then as ocean returning coho come in switch over to a 7 wt. to give me the ability to cast heavier flies...and with which I can still throw a small fly if needed.

I have difficulty with spending $1K on a fly rod, especially one that will get more limited use. I am also leery of buying a used "high end" rod...that reminds me of some of my experiences buying used cars. I've looked on the internet at various 7 wt. rods since my salt season ended. Last month I ended up making a decision and bought a TFO rod: TFO AXIOM II-X (TF 07 4 A2-X). It's a 9’, 7 wt. (3.4 oz.) at $429. TFO touts it as extra fast. That rod has been on the market for over 3 years...so it has a track record. It had favorable reviews from people in Florida and Louisiana fishing for snook, baby tarpon, bonefish & redfish in areas that have lots of wind to deal with. I have not fished it or cast it yet. I think it will work out fine for me but only time on the water will tell.

I have a TFO Pro 9 wt. that I bought as a B/U for my Sage Foundation 9 wt. that I use for estuary chum. I got it on sale at Cabelas for around $200 3 years ago. TFO is a Texas company but makes their rods in Korea. Buying a rod made in Korea rod bugs me but not as much as if it was made in China. I enjoy casting the TFO Pro better than the Foundation. It feels lighter in hand than the Foundation even though it is a heavier rod. It is not as fast as action as the Foundation so not as good in heavy wind. IMO, the TFO Pro also has better components, cork and finish than the Foundation. Out of the box, the TFO Axiom II-X 7 wt. looks well made and feels light in hand.

Just curious. What size eyes are you using on a fly that you’d consider a heavy stinger clouser and how long is the fly?
SF

 

[clarkman]

Don't really need to say anything about the fly rods since it seems you've been given a myriad of options and opinions there. But what kind of line are you using? a good old fashioned longer head? or more of a modern slightly overweighted shooting head? The thing I like about fishing shooting heads for everything except delicate dry fly fishing for trout, is that it's one (maybe two) backcasts, a couple of good hauls, & let it fly (no pun intended)...at least then you're fishing more than you're casting. It's easier on the body too.

Ok, I lied about rod rec's....go shorter, not longer. Your shoulder will thank you later....Then again, I'm often a little contrarian with how I go about things.

There is also one constant when I fish for long days. I stop in the middle to eat, not eat while I fish.

 

[SurfnFish]

6 wt switch with

Jeff, have you considered a switch rod? Using two hands will cut in half the body stress that you are feeling using only one hand.
Many (aging) beach casters I know have progressed from single hand rods in the 9'6" to 10' range, to single hand 9' rods, and then to switch rods. (Some just install a long fighting butt into an existing beach rod, which turns it into a double hander.)
Keep in mind that manufacturers of switch and Spey rods usually rate their rods 2 or 3 line weights lower than single handers. IE: A 5 wt. switch rod usually works best with lines that weigh in the 7 or 8 wt. single hand range. For example, I have a 10'8" Echo Switch that is sold as a 5 wt., and works well tossing an SA GPX WF8F. (But I like dedicated switch lines on it better, like the Snowbee Switch line, or Orvis Access Switch line.)
I really appreciate switch and Spey rod manufacturers who state their rods' line ratings in grains.

x2
consider a switch rod with OPST head/Lazar running line, elbows in and casting hands kept below ears = relaxed shoulders and looong casts.

 

[Grandpa Jim]

Just curious. What size eyes are you using on a fly that you’d consider a heavy stinger clouser and how long is the fly?
SF

7/32 eye, 3.5" long, 2/0 hook for shank with a size 1 octopus stinger
also tie a 2.75" long one with 7/32 eye, 2 hook shank & size 2 octopus stinger

 

[SculpinSwinger]

6 wt switch with

x2
consider a switch rod with OPST head/Lazar running line, elbows in and casting hands kept below ears = relaxed shoulders and looong casts.

I just want to point out that we are back at @Dustin Chromers OHS suggestion. I own the 6 and 8, both get cast with 2 hands 80-90% of the time. I am a middle aged carpenter, 2 handed is a lot easier on my hammer swinging elbow.
The OHS is what the switch rod intended to be.

 

[Stonedfish]

7/32 eye, 3.5" long, 2/0 hook for shank with a size 1 octopus stinger
also tie a 2.75" long one with 7/32 eye, 2 hook shank & size 2 octopus stinger

Thanks for the reply.
I’ve never really found the need to go bigger than 5/32 for either a standard or stinger clouser. No problem casting 4” long flies on a 6 wt with that size eyes. If the weight of the eyes are an issue for your rod, perhaps downsizing them would help rather then to continue to battle with them.
If someone wants more depth, you can always first try a type 3 line.
SF

 

[Grandpa Jim]

Thanks for the reply.
I’ve never really found the need to go bigger than 5/32 for either a standard or stinger clouser. No problem casting 4” long flies on a 6 wt with that size eyes. If the weight of the eyes are an issue for your rod, perhaps downsizing them would help rather then to continue to battle with them.
If someone won’t more depth, you can always first try a type 3 line.
SF

Thanks so much for the advice! I pasted your comment in my beach fly tying document that I use to record what materials I use.
I'm relatively new to the SH beach coho game. I feel like I have smaller fly patterns dialed in but not so with clousers; both with my casting and tying.

 

[jasmillo]

Thanks for the reply.
I’ve never really found the need to go bigger than 5/32 for either a standard or stinger clouser. No problem casting 4” long flies on a 6 wt with that size eyes. If the weight of the eyes are an issue for your rod, perhaps downsizing them would help rather then to continue to battle with them.
If someone wants more depth, you can always first try a type 3 line.
SF

100%. I prefer to fish bigger stinger clousers with lighter eyes and type 3/5 lines versus heavier eyes and intermediate lines. Same result, easier on the caster!

In the end the preference to fish and 6 or 7 off the beach is a personal one. I don’t find a 7 to be overkill but tend to fish 6 and 7’s interchangeably these days and find little difference in 6/7 rods in the models I fish. I fish the same reels and the same lines on both. There might be a little bit of extra umph in the 7’s as the bigger fish arrive and winds pick up later in the season but a 6 weight gets the job done just as well.

In the end, the OP is very good beach coho fisher. One of the more consistent guys I have met on the beach the last 4-5 years. Not sure what will stop the body aches. 6 or 7 might not make a huge difference. I am a tad bit younger than you and find it’s the repetitive motion versus the rod causing my July to October body aches these days. I think I need to develop an off-season coho workout program!

 

[Dloy]

A 5wt or 6wt switch rod would be a good choice. I had a 5/6 wt for a while, unfortunately sold it, but miss it now. A service man in need came along and I decided to help.
If by chance you come across a 6wt Meridian, it throws 6wt and 7wt lines equally well. A “half heavy” 7wt line slows it down a bit much but a normally aspirated 7 is money. Medium weight Clousers (eg.) are like soft butter.

 

[kmudgn]

There are a number of species that are known as the "fish of a thousand casts". Steelhead, Atlantic Salmon, and Musky are just a few. My advice on a rod is simple: not Bamboo. I have a heavy 8wt bamboo rod that tears up my shoulder, Biceps & Deltoids if I try to use it all day. Its just too heavy and has too much momentum to be overcome when changings cast directions from front to back.
I have both a Sage ZXL, and TFO in 8wt that I use instead. Both are "slow" action and have enough guts to punch out a big fly and manage a strong fish. I can use a Spey rod, but do not really like to use it unless I must (think Atlantic Salmon)

 

[Al_Neves]

@Jeffwhale7
I'm not a huge fan of the yellowstone shootouts, but they do measure swing weight. I think @Kfish really nailed it with the meridian suggestion.

This chart might help you. Note: this is for 8 weights. The orvis recon looks like a prime backup candidate for your budget range, especially if getting a new rod is is important.
View attachment 57149

Yellowstone folks have no idea how/why/what saltwater fly angling is about IMHO. A Sage X, for example, is a wonderful flats rod for bonefish lines with long front/back tapers, but not great rod using the aggressive lines line Quickshooter or Outbound from RIO. The Sage Salt HD 9weight is the ultimate Striper rod (IMHO) with these aggressive head oriented lines, because it has a heavy tip and rod weight is suited to catching stripers especially in the surf. They make this point in the review regarding the rod tip. But you need a heavy tip to throw heavy aggressive lines.

 

[Jacob Watrous]

Yellowstone folks have no idea how/why/what saltwater fly angling is about IMHO. A Sage X, for example, is a wonderful flats rod for bonefish lines with long front/back tapers, but not great rod using the aggressive lines line Quickshooter or Outbound from RIO. The Sage Salt HD 9weight is the ultimate Striper rod (IMHO) with these aggressive head oriented lines, because it has a heavy tip and rod weight is suited to catching stripers especially in the surf. They make this point in the review regarding the rod tip. But you need a heavy tip to throw heavy aggressive lines.

Not to mention that George, consciously or not, tends to favor the rod companies that George likes or who have given the shop favorable terms. They've got to run a business, and they're pretty successful, but YA's not great at unbiased rod reviews (though who is?).