Fantastic idea! I could cook a whole mess of flies in there. Definitely getting one of those.
Why/when would you use UV cure vs zap-a-gap or superglue?
- Thread starter Josh
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tkww
Life of the Party
I use UV resins for covering larger areas, where I want distinct shine, or where I want to build up a little bulk--wing cases, scud backs, etc. I use superglue more for bonding (eyes), durability (like coating a body before winding a fragile rib material), or sometimes for locking in thread if I can't use a knot.
My biggest complaint with superglue is the overly-fast set time unless you move to the gels, but then you often have a separate step of spreading or positioning the gel. Both types of superglue have their place, not trying to say they don't, but they do come with some distinct characteristics.
I will use UV for heads if I'm already using UV. For example, if I'm coating a wing case on a nymph, I'll move a little UV over the head wraps and cure the whole thing. Outside of that, I usually use head cement.
As mentioned, supposedly stays flexible. I have yet to use superglue in flexible applications, so the difference is absolutely not worth it to me. Not to mention that if you don't use it for a while, you may very well be needing a new bottle. So again, cheaper is better for my uses.
Everyone--keep your glue in an (airtight) jar like a canning/mason jar with rice in it (or some other desiccant). Moisture is what causes CA glues to set, so keeping moisture away is the goal. Long-term storage is recommended be at 40° or below--fridge or freezer.
Ill add on to these questions, Davie McPhail uses UV resin on his Chromies. He then adds another layer of Varnish. I think what he calls varnish is what we call Head Cement. Do you folks think this step is necessary? I always thought the UV Resin kept water from seeping in around the hook, thus ruining the fly's materials, thus no need to overcoat the resin.
In my experience, Head Cement and Krazy Glue, deteriorate and can also change color, over time. How about you folks? Those characteristics are what prompted me to start using UV Resin. I use the UV Resin mostly for Chromies and Perdigons but have also used it to attach various materials. I also add the resin to the thread, on a whip finish. I really do like the convenience of the UV Resin not setting up quickly, allowing as much work time as needed.
Very interested to see how this thread provides insight and information..
Happy 2025.
Bob
In my experience, Head Cement and Krazy Glue, deteriorate and can also change color, over time. How about you folks? Those characteristics are what prompted me to start using UV Resin. I use the UV Resin mostly for Chromies and Perdigons but have also used it to attach various materials. I also add the resin to the thread, on a whip finish. I really do like the convenience of the UV Resin not setting up quickly, allowing as much work time as needed.
Very interested to see how this thread provides insight and information..
Happy 2025.
Bob
Although I am a strong supporter of local fly shops and online fly fishing retailers, I draw the line when it comes to fly fishing branded UV resins. I have yet to read or hear about any compelling technical reason to use fly fishing branded UV resins in lieu of the vastly more affordable and widely available UV jewelry resins—resins available in the same variety of viscosities as are fly fishing branded resins. First, if there is a compelling technical reason to use fly fishing branded UV resins, I’d like to hear it. One could argue that fly fishing branded UV resins are sold in small, convenient to use containers and jewelry resins are not. That might be true, but it is very easy to load up small, cheap applicator containers with resin to replicate those sold for the fly tying market. Also, UV resins don’t dry out like volatile solvent based coatings and cements so buying in larger quantities is not problematic. The stuff remains useful for a long time, even if inadvertently left uncovered.
As a little exercise to compare the relative cost of different UV resin products, I’ve laid out the following grid. Prices are from J. Stockard and Amazon. These are just an example of what’s available, but clearly shows that the UV Jewelry Resins are far more affordable than the fly tying brands. I’ve been using them for at least five years with great success for both fresh and saltwater applications. And unless someone can provide a compelling reason to use the more expensive stuff my flies and I are going to stick with it.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=uv+resin&crid=3BKT70H6QFEUE
As a little exercise to compare the relative cost of different UV resin products, I’ve laid out the following grid. Prices are from J. Stockard and Amazon. These are just an example of what’s available, but clearly shows that the UV Jewelry Resins are far more affordable than the fly tying brands. I’ve been using them for at least five years with great success for both fresh and saltwater applications. And unless someone can provide a compelling reason to use the more expensive stuff my flies and I are going to stick with it.
Product | Price | Price/Ounce | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
Solarez-Fly Tie Thin Hard Formula-5 grams | $6.25 | $34.79 | J. Stockard |
Solarez-Fly Tie Thin Hard Formula-2 ounces | $39.95 | $19.97 | J. Stockard |
Solarez-Fly Tie Medium Viscosity Formula- .5 ounces | $17.45 | $34.90 | J. Stockard |
Solarez-Fly Tie Medium Viscosity Formula-2 ounces | $39.95 | $19.97 | J. Stockard |
| Loon-UV Clear Fly Finish-Thin/Thick/Flow-.5 ounces | $19.50 | $39.00 | J. Stockard |
| Loon-UV Clear Fly Finish-Thin/Thick-2 ounces | $60.00 | $30.00 | J. Stockard |
| JDiction High Gloss UV Clear Jewelry Resin - 300 grams (3 100 gram containers) | $13.99 | $1.32 | Amazon |
| Let’s Resin UV Clear High Viscosity - 200 grams (2 100 gram containers) | $16.99 | $2.14 | Amazon |
I use superglue to help adhere dumbell eyes to hooks and I sometimes use it on the final thread wraps just before the final whip finish, especially on jigs and streamer type flies; Like @Northern, I coat the last several centimeters of thread. I think it helps lock in the materials and reduces the chance of materials sliding on the hook shank. I love UV resins for midge bodies but does UV resin block all moisture from getting to the underlying wraps? Probably not so that might be a case fore coating with "varnish" after curing the resin (I don't bother with a final varnish coating as I just don't care if UV resins are "semi-permeable").
Thanks @Mike Cline for your table of resin values, very interesting indeed.
Thanks @Mike Cline for your table of resin values, very interesting indeed.
I use superglue to hold foam and weight (lead/non-lead) to hook. I also use superglue to hold eyes, then use UV to fully set. I agree with the comment regarding brand name UV cement. Ridiculous cost. Generic UV holds just fine.
I also use Harbor Freight super glue. It's only about 35 cents a tube. Pretty much cyanoacrylate is cyanoacrylate. So again, brand names are a waste of you money
I also use Harbor Freight super glue. It's only about 35 cents a tube. Pretty much cyanoacrylate is cyanoacrylate. So again, brand names are a waste of you money
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@Mike Cline,
Thank you for this info. Any idea which of the Amazon Resin is similar to the Solarez Ultra Thin Bone Dry formula? This has been my go to for a few years now.
Bob
Thank you for this info. Any idea which of the Amazon Resin is similar to the Solarez Ultra Thin Bone Dry formula? This has been my go to for a few years now.
Bob
Not off the top of my head. Probably have to really read up on the specs of different resins. There are a lot of them out there. Might want to peruse the UV Jewelry web info to see if there is anything talked about similar to the Thin Bone dry.
Thanks @Mike Cline,
FYI, don't breathe the fumes of any of this stuff.
And take care, you can develop sensitivity over time, just like I did with toluene in rubber cement and MEK in fiberglass hardener. It's not good.
And take care, you can develop sensitivity over time, just like I did with toluene in rubber cement and MEK in fiberglass hardener. It's not good.
Here’s the tech sheet for Bone Dry. 75cps (whatever that means). One of the Amazon brands advertised as thin is 2000 cps (again see above). I’m going to keep looking around. I do like Bone Dry more than any other resin but we all know the resin is probably generic.
That’s pretty slick (no pun intended)…
this but to elaborate - the older uv resins were fairly thick so the UV never penetrated the thread so it was def just a coating. The newer resins seem to be better but still not as effective as a liquid glue to bond things together.
But I do use 3 types of super glue (zap thin, zap, and loctite gel), e6000, liquid fusion, and 3 types of UV (regular, thin and flex), so I could be overthinking it.
Edit - super glue for thread and tying off or after lashing down dumbbell eyes. Zap and sometimes gel for gluing foam, e6000 and sometimes gel for gluing eyes on flies. LF to coat the eyes and for durability. UV for coating, shaping a head, making perdigons, etc
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Dave Boyle
Life of the Party
I read or heard somewhere that superglue does not darken or ‘wet’ the thread colour as much as compared to SHAN or resins.
Dave
Dave
