Wading Boot Recommendation

[Matt B]

I am not a light person and am hard on my fishing boots so I go for durability rather than light weight and I have been loving the made in USA pata-danner foot tractors. I used to rock only the Weinbrenners until they were no longer made and these are like those, but better. Heavy, but bulletproof and hella stable. In between Weinbrenners and Foot Tractors, I never found anything I really liked for durability but I had some nice comfy boots from various brands in that time that just didn’t hold up very well.

 

[DFG]

I have a pair of Korkers. The felt offers superior footing on the greased bowling balls that pass for river rocks. Felt soles aren't great when walking up the bank (they tend to be a bit slick on grass) but I've never known anyone to get wet or washed downstream while on the bank. With the interchangeable soles you can always switch to a rubber lug sole.

This is my first pair, after a decade of various Orvis boots. When my last pair fell apart after 2 years I opted for a change.

I'd recommend buying a model with the Boa system in lieu of laces. The pair I got is fairly soft, and much more comfortable to walk in. They offer the same support as my Orvis.

(No slam to Orvis... I'm still a believer in their products and customer service!)

 

[clarkman]

I do have a pair of Korkers that I use for backups (a several year old mid-level pair...no idea on actual name since they seem to change every year). The support just isn't there for me though, even after swapping out the insole. Their customer service is excellent, however, as evidenced by the 3 times I had to have another pair replaced due to premature seam failure (I think these were the Chrome's).

 

[SurfnFish]

The better the boot fits, the longer it will last, and a good fit is invaluable.
As to warm water wading, will defer to my friend in HI who flyfishes from the reefs a lot wearing $50 high top basketball shoes from the discount store over socks to keep debris out. When shredded, rinse and repeat.

 

[Snickersnackers]

Thanks for all the great feedback everyone. You all have convinced me to change my tack.

I'm quite interested in a Korker product now. The Dark Horse is what my friend has that I referenced in my original post and those are seeming like a very good option now with all of the great input. Looking through their other offerings, I also saw the Devil's Canyon. These also seem like a decent option that provide a bit more flexibility in the upper. I've never been one to need a bunch of ankle support - I hike in hiking shoes ILO boots - so the added support of the Dark Horse isn't a necessity for me. Though it looks like the Devil's Canyon doesn't have a place to hook your gravel guards (?). Seems a strange decision if that is actually the case...

 

[Brian Miller]

Korkers boots are very lightweight for the support, stability, protection, and traction (with the Triple Threat bar cleat sole) they've provided me. I have had 5 pairs *edit - of their top of line boots* since ~2010 including two replacements under the 1 year warranty.

Just my opinion, if your hiking that much get a back pack for hiking shoes then switch into wading boots when you get to your destination.

The very lightweight (but dangerous to wade in) Korkers Kling-On soles are OK to hike longer distances, and I'll carry the heavy aluminum bar cleat soles (or sometimes the lightweight felts) in my pack.

I like the Darkhorse because of the Boa system. I haven't seen one fail but heard of this likely from those who like rumours.

I'm quite interested in a Korker product now. The Dark Horse is what my friend has that I referenced in my original post and those are seeming like a very good option now with all of the great input.

@Snickersnackers I had the BOA Devils Canyon for 3 years. I could never get a fit with BOA that locked my heel into the heel cup, even when the lacing was so tight it hurt my ankles. It caused my toes to jam into the toe box when walking downhill or long days walking on big cobble. I lost two toenails over two successive years. Two friends had a similar problem. With laces I can lace tightly up the instep, lock in the heel with a double overhand knot at the top of the instep, then a little looser up the ankle. I liked the BOA convenience but never again.

I do have a pair of Korkers that I use for backups (a several year old mid-level pair...no idea on actual name since they seem to change every year). The support just isn't there for me though, even after swapping out the insole

For several years now I have been using the medium volume SOLE Dean Karnazes (discontinued) runner's insoles in my last 3 pairs of Korkers; the kind that are heated in the oven to mold to the user's foot. Something like that might help.

 

[Nick Clayton]

I just picked up a pair of Orvis Pros with the BOA system. Haven't had them long enough to speak to their durability though. They are replacing a non BOA pair that got destroyed by the salt after about 3 years, but I never once rinsed them so I don't blame the boots at all. Eventually the eyelets just rusted out. Pretty typical for every boot I've owned.

I will say I am a HUGE fan of their Michelin rubber soles. I cant stand felt in the boat, just too damn slick. The rubber on those boots is easily the best grip I've ever used in the boat, as well as on saltwater beaches and stuff.

 

[Brian Miller]

I just picked up a pair of Orvis Pros with the BOA system. Haven't had them long enough to speak to their durability though. They are replacing a non BOA pair that got destroyed by the salt after about 3 years

The BOA lifetime warranty is real good. I used it once for the fit problem, didn't work. But I've heard they're highly resistant to rust.

I have a very old (2006?) pair of Cabela's branded (Chota STL oem) lace up, rubber soled (resoleable), and studded with Kold Cutter #8s (terrible without studs) dedicated for saltwater beaches. I've had the leather uppers restitched @ Ardesson's who advised that keeping them well treated with Obenauf's will continue make them last a long time.

 

[Rob Allen]

Korkers boots are very lightweight for the support, stability, protection, and traction (with the Triple Threat bar cleat sole) they've provided me. I have had 5 pairs *edit - of their top of line boots* since ~2010 including two replacements under the 1 year warranty.


The very lightweight (but dangerous to wade in) Korkers Kling-On soles are OK to hike longer distances, and I'll carry the heavy aluminum bar cleat soles (or sometimes the lightweight felts) in my pack.


@Snickersnackers I had the BOA Devils Canyon for 3 years. I could never get a fit with BOA that locked my heel into the heel cup, even when the lacing was so tight it hurt my ankles. It caused my toes to jam into the toe box when walking downhill or long days walking on big cobble. I lost two toenails over two successive years. Two friends had a similar problem. With laces I can lace tightly up the instep, lock in the heel with a double overhand knot at the top of the instep, then a little looser up the ankle. I liked the BOA convenience but never again.


For several years now I have been using the medium volume SOLE Dean Karnazes (discontinued) runner's insoles in my last 3 pairs of Korkers; the kind that are heated in the oven to mold to the user's foot. Something like that might help.

There is nothing dangerous about felt and carbide stude.

 

[RCF]

There is nothing dangerous about felt and carbide stude.

I have felt with carbide studs and have slipped and slid down a stream. Just imagine where I would be with rubber or just felt... Miles downstream, in a log jam, maybe permanently.

Luv my felt with carbide studs. Saved me a number of times for sure.

 

[Otter]

I'm quite interested in a Korker product now.

My daughter has worn a pair of Korkers (Redsides, I believe) for several years, only using the felt outsoles. They are very light, and have an ample toe box. They have cord laces (not metal BOA cables) that are fastened at the top with those plastic lace-locker things with the push buttons. One of those broke, which I replaced. The boots are holding up well, fishing both rivers and beaches. Hope this helps.

BTW, if you have feet like mine, with wide forefoot and narrow heel, you might want to look at Chotas. They are the only boot that I have found that fit my foot shape. All other brands I've tried are either too narrow overall, or too loose at the heel. One drawback of the Chotas is they shrink when they dry. They are leather. As soon as you get them wet, they go back to their original size. Putting them on dry at the start of my day is a royal pain. Maybe I'll try some boot grease, like Snoseal. Oh, and they are not light, and downright heavy once soaked.

 

[Brian Miller]

FWIW, Over the last 13 years I've used the Korkers...
plain rubber Kling-On (dangerous for wading),
felt (including my old Weinbrenner Borgers) - good,
Dan Bailey galoshes overshoes with bar cleats on felt - better than felt,
studded Kling-On (close to felt),
Carbide spikes - terrible in the Lochsa,
Triple Threat replaceable bar cleat - better than felt,
(discontinued) Kling-On with non-replaceable bar cleats - hands down the best.

 

[Brian Miller]

...you might want to look at Chotas... they shrink when they dry. They are leather. As soon as you get them wet, they go back to their original size. Putting them on dry at the start of my day is a royal pain. Maybe I'll try some boot grease, like Snoseal. Oh, and they are not light, and downright heavy once soaked.

^^^ Yup to all. A shoe repair shop recommended Obenauf's Leather Conditioner for the leather. They are heavy. My ~2006 version rubber soles are terrible without studs. The Chota studs are expensive and won't stay in. I switched to Kold Cutter #8 motorcycle ice racing screws. They dont stay in either but are cheap.

 

[Zak]

I am not a light person and am hard on my fishing boots so I go for durability rather than light weight and I have been loving the made in USA pata-danner foot tractors. I used to rock only the Weinbrenners until they were no longer made and these are like those, but better. Heavy, but bulletproof and hella stable. In between Weinbrenners and Foot Tractors, I never found anything I really liked for durability but I had some nice comfy boots from various brands in that time that just didn’t hold up very well.

I really like my felt PataDanners.

 

[Old Man]

I had a pair of Hodgman's with felt and studs. They were high over the ankle, so good support. Since I don't need wader boots anymore I have no idea what become of them. When wet they felt like they weighed in at 100 lbs a piece. Good exercise for weak legs.

 

[Grandpa Jim]

I've had some Simms G3 vibram sole boots for 5 years. I do as much hiking as fishing in them. I fish walk-in spots on the OP for winter steelhead. I drive from spot to spot so cleats on soles will tear up my car. The Simms G3 have great ankle support. Felt sole boots do not work for me when walking through wet clay, especially on steep slopes. For wading in slick bottom conditions I use Yaktrax Diamond Grips that I slip over the vibram boot soles. I keep the Diamond Grips in a plastic bag that I slip into a pouch in my backpack. Felt soles work better on a slick bottom but the Yaktrax is a decent compromise for me for most conditions. I highly recommend the G3 and the Yaktrax if you fish similar to me.

I have some cheap Caddis felt sole boots that I will use whenever I float in a drift boat/raft. I occasionally use the felt sole boots if I don't have to do much hiking to where I plan to fish and the river bottom is pretty slick. I also use them on cobbled Area 9 & 10 beaches in the summer and early fall. I've had the Caddis boots for 2 years. The metal parts have a little rust but the boots are holding up surprisingly well for something under $80.

 

[Colinb]

I've worn out my current pair of Redington Benchmark wading boots after two seasons so I'm in the market for a new pair.

Some considerations:

• Lightweight - I fish quickly and cover a lot of ground. That and going down to the D with four friends means I have to make my own space. So a lighter boot seems to make sense to me.
• Durability - This may be in conflict with point one. I only managed a few seasons out of my current pair and as I understand it, that's a shorter life than one might expect. Admittedly, I am someone who wades recklessly so I'm often getting my boot wedged in between rocks and ripping it out.
• Price point - ~$200 would be great though I'd be willing to consider more for the right reasons.
• Sole type - The majority of my fishing is done in the western Washington mountain streams with occasional trips to the Yak and D. My current pair are rubber sole with studs and man, do I slip and slide a bunch. Again, I'm not a careful wader so maybe that's my problem but this has got me considering felt. For what it is worth, I have never once hiked around in snow though I do tend to make two November-February trips to the D so maybe I've been lucky to avoid it. I also have a desire to get into SRC fishing on Puget Sound so if there is any overlap in function on that front it may tip my decision.

Products I'm considering:

• Redington Benchmark - I did really like my old pair even given the durability concerns. These are actually cheap enough that I would consider purchasing both felt and a rubber pair.
• Simms Flyweight - I have a pair of G3 waders that I love and Simms is THE brand to first consider when it comes to wading equipment. Can anyone attest to the durability relative to the Benchmark?
• Simms Flyweight Access - The marketing makes it seem that these could be perfect for slippery substrate without the concerns that come with felt. Though I usually don't go for new-ish products. Can anyone speak to this product?
• Korkers Buckskin - I understand Korkers divide opinion but it seems like they've greatly improved their product recently and I have a friend who is happy with his pair. These would obviously solve my felt vs rubber conundrum but these look heavy though that could be an optical illusion.

I plan to check out these products in person, of course, but I'd like some guidance on how they function on the river to help me make the final decision.

Thanks,
Dave

Kind of a crap shoot but I’m still using an older model simms rivershed boot for sound fishing. They are tattered and ugly, pretty much on death bed. That being said I probably purchased them circa 2007-2009ish on sale in MT. Wore them in all types rivers/conditions, float tubing and salt fishing. My time on water has reduced the last 6yrs so now they are just Puget sound beaters but if I found them cheap and lightly used I would buy again.

 

[Herkileez]

Look for boots with good support..possibly at sacrifice of lightweight, but support is more important.
STITCHED construction, not just glued, including soles..
I count on felt soles, usually with studs on my greasy local streams. IMO, vibram soles are a hazard.

 

[cdnred]

Maybe a dumb idea but has anyone ever tried using a pair of ice cleats over their boots for traction rather then studs..? I'm thinking that they may fit too loose on the boots for providing stability when moving across river rocks making them more dangerous. They'd be similar to Korkers with the removable soles. Just a thought..


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[Matt B]

Maybe a dumb idea but has anyone ever tried using a pair of ice cleats over their boots for traction rather then studs..? I'm thinking that they may fit too loose on the boots for providing stability when moving across river rocks making them more dangerous. They'd be similar to Korkers with the removable soles. Just a thought..

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Too pointy, not enough contact with the rock. I’ve seen people use yaktraxx type chains but I think there is a reason it isn’t popular.