Tru-oil wood landing net care

[Tom Butler]

Last summer in the tube really did a number on my wood net. Down to about bare wood and a bit dry. The direction are tur-oil and 000 steel wool. I cleaned it up a bit with steel wool but did not remove all the finish in some areas, nor remove the basket.
The first coat was just absorbed on the handle butt and far net end. It seemed reasonably dry after 6 hrs so I rubbed in another coat. Next morning steel wool, coat, dry and coat. This morning I wooled and put on another coat. Just now, 5 coats, 6 hrs dry, looks to be building a bit of a finish.
My questions as this is the first time I've done this. Right track? How many coats would be recommended? Any recommendations appreciated.

 

[Buzzy]

Tom - with the work you're putting into your net, I bet it looks better now than new. I have three wooden nets in my quiver, all built by my fishing friend Herb Superb. Herb uses boiled linseed oil and then waxes his nets to a high gloss. They're beautiful like that but the boiled linseed oil/wax finish isn't durable. I have a pint of the same oil and frequently rub the oil on a net as it needs it then let it set a minute or two and rub with a clean, cotton cloth. It takes two or three minutes several times a year. Let's hope with all your work that the finish is durable, properly done, your Tru-Oil finish will look like the stock of a nice rifle!

 

[Tim Cottage]

Last summer in the tube really did a number on my wood net. Down to about bare wood and a bit dry. The direction are tur-oil and 000 steel wool. I cleaned it up a bit with steel wool but did not remove all the finish in some areas, nor remove the basket.
The first coat was just absorbed on the handle butt and far net end. It seemed reasonably dry after 6 hrs so I rubbed in another coat. Next morning steel wool, coat, dry and coat. This morning I wooled and put on another coat. Just now, 5 coats, 6 hrs dry, looks to be building a bit of a finish.
My questions as this is the first time I've done this. Right track? How many coats would be recommended? Any recommendations appreciated.
View attachment 50565View attachment 50566

Yes you are on the right track. A dozen or more coats is pretty good. Some rod makers will do as many as 20

 

[Tom Butler]

It takes two or three minutes several times a year.

I knew it was looking rough yet I procrastinated. Luckily I don't think I left it too long. I'll do that.

Yes you are on the right track. A dozen or more coats is pretty good. Some rod makers will do as many as 20

Thanks Tim.

 

[wetline dave]

Tom, I have finished many rifle stocks with oil treatments and was taught the process by an old time gun smith.
First ditch the steel wool. It will fragment and leave "slivers" in the wood. These slivers in time will rust and spot the finish. Use 400 free cot sand paper and buff very lightly between coats of oil. Add coats until when looking down the wood and well lighted all the pores are filled. The light sanding is necessary to get a smooth finish. You are basically knocking off the high spots. Onceall the dimple, "pores" are filled add additional coats with alight buff in between. The more coats the deeper the finish and the more durable. I would let each oat dry for 24 hour and each coat should be as thin as possible. This allows for the oil to harden and not soften the under lying coat of oil.

After the final coat let it dry for 3 or 4 days and then lightly wax with a hardwood floor wax. Two coats is a good idea. I typically apply around 12 coats of oil after all the pores are filled. This is one technique and there are others. This is what has worked best for me.

Dave

 

[Jake Watrous]

I've always felt tru-oil doesn't penetrate as well as linseed, and linseed isn't the most durable. I really like teak oil for durability--at least that's what I have used on paddles and am planning to use on the wood nets I'm working on. Of course, I'm also not a huge fan of the glassy finish tru-oil leaves, so perhaps there's some bias there too.

Hardwood floor wax is an interesting idea.

 

[Tom Butler]

Tom, I have finished many rifle stocks with oil treatments and was taught the process by an old time gun smith.
First ditch the steel wool. It will fragment and leave "slivers" in the wood. These slivers in time will rust and spot the finish. Use 400 free cot sand paper and buff very lightly between coats of oil. Add coats until when looking down the wood and well lighted all the pores are filled. The light sanding is necessary to get a smooth finish. You are basically knocking off the high spots. Onceall the dimple, "pores" are filled add additional coats with alight buff in between. The more coats the deeper the finish and the more durable. I would let each oat dry for 24 hour and each coat should be as thin as possible. This allows for the oil to harden and not soften the under lying coat of oil.

After the final coat let it dry for 3 or 4 days and then lightly wax with a hardwood floor wax. Two coats is a good idea. I typically apply around 12 coats of oil after all the pores are filled. This is one technique and there are others. This is what has worked best for me.

Dave

Thank you. I did see a video where he mentioned the steel wool fragments rusting. I have wet/dry paper down to 600. I saw in several videos the recommendation was 2 hours dry time but it was still tacky, I did figure it needed more, and I'm not in a hurry.

 

[PhilR]

I used tru oil to give my box-store net a glow up. It came with a terrible varnish job. I really like how it looks - so it's not just for high-end nets.

 

[Lue Taylor]

Many coats of Tru-oil and then Gun stock wax

 

[Tom Butler]

Many coats of Tru-oil and then Gun stock wax

Thanks Lue.
Now up to 8 coats, last 3 have 12 hrs. dry time between. Starting to look really good. I think I'll add coats through the weekend. My son has the gun stock wax, so after it has dried really well I'll wax it up.

 

[Tom Butler]

Got about 15 coats, with 600 grit sanding in between. Last few one a day. Although the finish is hard and smooth, the better it gets, the more the lack of good preparation shows. Next time I'll redo the basket and prep the wood better. Dry about a week now, so will wax and buff when I can get it from my son. For the most part happy with how it came out and it's certainly better protected than it was.