Yes, just keep the clamps on the battery and the solar panel in the sun/open.
Unfortunately 10 watts, .83 amps, in optimum conditions is diddly compared to the draw of a running motor.Reading the questions on it ,it doesn't sound like it will keep up with the usage while trolling or whatever with the motor , so would it be worth trying to adapt it to a pontoon boat while fishing. Or would it be worthwhile ,say it maintains half of what you are using ,and shortens the charge time for the battery for daily use . My thoughts are using it during the day while fishing . Recharge after fishing with my regular charger for the next day , hopefully shorten up the charge time . Reason for asking , got a four day fishing trip coming up . Will be in the pontoon boat a good part of each of those four days . Will be dry camping ,and charging those batteries with a generator .
Unfortunately 10 watts, .83 amps, in optimum conditions is diddly compared to the draw of a running motor.
9.9hp Johnson.You must have that 5 speed forward ,2 speed reverse motor ? Have you reversed the motor head to see if speed one in forward is slow enough in reverse to troll ? Can't remember on mine , but did not like that 5 speeds at all. Didn't last long with that motor before going to variable speed .
Or use a PWM with forward and reverse. Leave the trolling motor on forward speed 5. The PWM will control the direction and dial the speed that you want.Do you know that you can reverse the head on that motor , and have 5 speeds in reverse . That way if you want to motor in quickly or to the next fishing hole you can , won’t need to deal with going forward .
Very nice!! I've built two PWM's that are similar. I like your Anderson connectors with the PWM staying with the battery, and using a remote potentiometer for speed control. If I get tired of having the PWM attached to my seat I may adapt the remote potentiometer idea to my PWM.I'm in the process of putting a small trolling motor on my Outcast Scout AKA 'Lost Creek Xstreamer' that some of us bought. I had an old heavy trolling motor I used on my inflatable Achilles tender which was looking pretty sad after years in the salt. I decided to get a new super light weight Watersnake 24lb thrust for around $130.00. This hopefully is of some help to those looking to add a motor to their frameless pontoon.
I had a lot of input from @Haggis57 to get me on the path. I originally tried to use my existing steel motor bracket off the Achilles but it was design for a larger diameter tube. I bought glue on mounts and a plastic bracket on Amazon but used a heat gun to bend the bracket to match the bow. Doing this again, I'd bend the bottom too and get the bracket more vertical and then glue the mounts. I have room to lop off the top of the bracket by an inch to get the prop a little deeper. The 24" shaft is pretty short.
On the motor I removed the shaft adjustment piece and replaced that with a Newport steering triangle and shimmed the smaller diameter shaft with duct tape. Also 180'd the tiller around. What's nice is the tiller is spring loaded and retracts into the motor head until you need it. I've got a piece of poly cutting board ready to cut once I feel ready to play around with a rudder. I also found some round 1" plastic louvers on coming to aid cooling in the PWM. I'll be finishing up the steering lines like @Haggis57 has done in the next couple of days.
Pic 2 is the remote on sticky back velcro. The forward/off/reverse switch is on the front where it's less likely to get accidentally bumped.
Pic 3 shows the PWM which latches directly onto the battery box I use for both my 'Scout' and the dingy on our sailboat. I installed Anderson plugs, an SAE charging port and breaker on the NOCO box years ago for our sailboats NOCO charging system and the new PWM build latches up perfectly. I used Scotch Lock UR connectors for the control cable splices.
Pic 4 This shows the Anderson plug on top of the PWM where the motor leads are plugged in.
Pic 5 Shows the PWM unlatched and off the box and how I can bypass if the PWM croaks.
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Edit- I didn't like the motor height as it was so I came up with a few more inches. I lopped 1-1/2" off the top of the bracket on the table saw to where I can still toggle down the transom clamps. This likely won't work on other motor brands so I'd recommend a 30" shaft. Next I cut off the top inch or so of the steering triangle and which included the upper tightening bolt. Mo Betta.
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What’s the advantage, I keep hearing about this , I don’t care about 5 speeds to start with I have a variable speed motor . But my first electric motor was the 5 speed , and at that point I didn’t care about how fast the forward was , just the reverse , reason for reversing the head . So just wondering what’s accomplished with this PWN , what am I missing here, or does this just apply to a 5 speed motor ???Or use a PWM with forward and reverse. Leave the trolling motor on forward speed 5. The PWM will control the direction and dial the speed that you want.
On my pontoon There are several advantages. The motor mount is on the back of the boat. I like to troll backwards so that my rods and lines are laid out in front of me. That's why I reverse the head of the motor so the streamlined motor is facing the correct direction for trolling. I steer with my fins so the only time I need to turn around is to lower and raise the motor at the launch area. Having the handle facing me makes this a little bit easier. Since I use the PWM it puts the finger tip controls right next to the armrest on my boat instead of having to reach behind me for the handle to change speed or forward/reverse. My friend even clamps a bicycle mirror on the brim of his hat so he doesn't run into anyone. I just take a quick peek now and then.What’s the advantage, I keep hearing about this , I don’t care about 5 speeds to start with I have a variable speed motor . But my first electric motor was the 5 speed , and at that point I didn’t care about how fast the forward was , just the reverse , reason for reversing the head . So just wondering what’s accomplished with this PWN , what am I missing here, or does this just apply to a 5 speed motor ???
Or just buy a variable speed to start with , and forget all about all these boxes , switches , wiring etc etc .
On my pontoon There are several advantages. The motor mount is on the back of the boat. I like to troll backwards so that my rods and lines are laid out in front of me. That's why I reverse the head of the motor so the streamlined motor is facing the correct direction for trolling. I steer with my fins so the only time I need to turn around is to lower and raise the motor at the launch area. Having the handle facing me makes this a little bit easier. Since I use the PWM it puts the finger tip controls right next to the armrest on my boat instead of having to reach behind me for the handle to change speed or forward/reverse. My friend even clamps a bicycle mirror on the brim of his hat so he doesn't run into anyone. I just take a quick peek now and then.
Your variable speed motor may already have a PWM built in. The other advantage of a PWM is that it conserves battery usage by sending short pulses rather than constant current. Combine this with a LiFepo4 battery and you've just knocked your weight down by 30-50 pounds and increased your running time. My LiFepo4 50ah battery weighs under 12 lbs and gives me the same use as a 75lb 100 ah lead acid battery.