Trolling issues

Kado

Steelhead
I have problems keeping trout pinned while trolling from one location on a lake to another. This morning got quite a few aggressive grabs but lost almost all of them. I was using a #14 mini leech with a full sink line. I don't seem to have a problem if I'm stripping....it's only when I'm trolling. I've tried holding the rod pointed at my fly, sideways, and up at an angle. I've done upward and sideways hook sets.
One big grab and maybe a headshake....and gone. Maybe I need to not crimp my barbs as much....but no problem with a regular strip set.
Any help appreciated. Beautiful morning on a local lake.
 

Tom Butler

Grandpa, Small Stream Fanatic
Forum Supporter
I'm just getting onto this lake stuff, so I'll follow too. I'm not sure I'm doing it the way I should. I've found out to the side about 45 degrees, rod parallel to water or slightly tip down. Don't set too hard as I'm already kicking. Don't get tip vertical. Have a loop in hand to feed the fish some line if necessary at first while keeping tension during your slow down. Then bring it in. The ones that get me are the ones that hit and keep coming at you, and all the kicking, stripping and yes, rod high over head trying to get line.
I miss many if I'm trolling straight line out the back.
Do you strip as you troll? I may be stripping, or tug and release, while trolling. Often as not they have taken it on the "pause", and the next pull reveals the fish.
 

Kado

Steelhead
I may be setting too hard. No stripping while I'm on the move....I have to admit I feel a little guilty landing a fish while trolling a fly...feels a little like I'm cheating. Still, I'd like to bring the sucker to the net anyways!
 

Divad

Whitefish
I troll full sinkers or weighted fly lines in general with rod tip almost touching the water, pointing towards the fly. And set a click and pawl drag fairly lightly as well, with preference for medium action (softer) rods. Two types of grabs when rod is oriented such, 1. the nip that wont even take line on a loose clicker but will bounce the rod a little or 2. the smack that'll quickly strip a chunk of line.

In theory number 2 example should only require a lift of the rod to set a running fish, and most of the time that is all that's needed. In part because the fish has already partially set itself from the pawl and submerged line tension. (ps. never 5x and seldom even 4x when trolling) think swing set for steelhead.

The nip or number 1 is the harder fish, the fish is actively looking at the fly, sampling and/or chewing. The lift can deter the fish at that point, but either way I go for rod in hand when I see movement but I prefer to either give the line a little small jerk/tap to check for fish weighted on the line or eradicate the movement in someway until I feel his weight. Sometimes the small jerk or tap leads to a strip set, or a direction change to a strong take. But the set then is still deliberate and much slower than say a dry take or bobber down.

I am always barbless, don't think that is your issue.
 

RCF

Life of the Party
I keep the tail of the fly fairly short so closer to the hook. Since doing that I rarely miss a strike. Before doing that I felt they bit the tail and avoided the hook. As others have indicated twitching the fly will also induce a strike.
 
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Tom Butler

Grandpa, Small Stream Fanatic
Forum Supporter
I keep the tail of the fly fairly short so closer to the hook. Since doing that I rarely miss a strike. Before doing that I felt they bit the tail and avoided the hook. As others have indicated twitching the fly will also induce a strike.
I tie mine about a hook shank long for the same reason. Shorter and they don't seem to interest the fish as much.
 

Tom Butler

Grandpa, Small Stream Fanatic
Forum Supporter
Using bamboo....so soft rod. I'm going to try and let the fish set themselves next outing. These are pretty hard hits, which made them that much more frustrating to lose them. I bet I'm setting way to hard.
I had one of those fast kicking on the way in today. I know it was the only bigger one of the day. Sounds like you got a point to start. When I got out infrequently I recall being so frustrated because I never got enough feedback to know if I was doing it right, now I can play with stuff. Hopefully you find enough fish willing to cooperate to give you a chance to work on it.
 
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Matt B

RAMONES
Forum Supporter
There’s a lot of good thoughts here. Sometimes especially trolling I think they just smack the fly and aren’t really eating it per se. It’s just part of the game. I think of fish caught trolling when moving from spot to spot with no motor as bonus fish. I still caught the damn thing. I got my ass out there in a floaty of some kind, picked out a reasonable fly and got it in front of a fish using human propulsion—that shit counts. For some reason, if a motor is involved I feel like it counts a little bit less.
 

Gary Knowels

Hack of all trades
Forum Supporter
I troll full sinkers or weighted fly lines in general with rod tip almost touching the water, pointing towards the fly. And set a click and pawl drag fairly lightly as well, with preference for medium action (softer) rods. Two types of grabs when rod is oriented such, 1. the nip that wont even take line on a loose clicker but will bounce the rod a little or 2. the smack that'll quickly strip a chunk of line.

In theory number 2 example should only require a lift of the rod to set a running fish, and most of the time that is all that's needed. In part because the fish has already partially set itself from the pawl and submerged line tension. (ps. never 5x and seldom even 4x when trolling) think swing set for steelhead.

The nip or number 1 is the harder fish, the fish is actively looking at the fly, sampling and/or chewing. The lift can deter the fish at that point, but either way I go for rod in hand when I see movement but I prefer to either give the line a little small jerk/tap to check for fish weighted on the line or eradicate the movement in someway until I feel his weight. Sometimes the small jerk or tap leads to a strip set, or a direction change to a strong take. But the set then is still deliberate and much slower than say a dry take or bobber down.

I am always barbless, don't think that is your issue.
When I'm in a float tube and kick trolling I put the rod straight out in front of me with the tip on the water. I had the line with my reel hand with about 18" of slack. When I get the little nip type bites I strip set, thinking that if I don't hook up, the fly is still near enough the fish to go for a second strike while I'm still in position to set again.
 

RCF

Life of the Party
I find that trolling for a while to let the fly sink and then not kicking and stripping the fly in works. Sometimes they want it moving fast.

Similar to the fly dropping when fishing for bass or crappie? That is what I was trying to say with twitching in an earlier post.
 

Chucker

Steelhead
Using bamboo....so soft rod. I'm going to try and let the fish set themselves next outing. These are pretty hard hits, which made them that much more frustrating to lose them. I bet I'm setting way to hard.

I doubt that you are setting too hard. More likely the opposite. Most people put more line out when trolling than casting. Then when a fish hits they have a lot more extra line stretch to deal with. A normal hook set with 100’ of line out and a soft rod will hardly move the fly at all, it’s all absorbed by the rod and the line stretch. Speeding up when a fish hits can help keep them on until you can strip in enough line to get it actually tight enough to set the hook.
 

Tom Butler

Grandpa, Small Stream Fanatic
Forum Supporter
I doubt that you are setting too hard. More likely the opposite. Most people put more line out when trolling than casting. Then when a fish hits they have a lot more extra line stretch to deal with. A normal hook set with 100’ of line out and a soft rod will hardly move the fly at all, it’s all absorbed by the rod and the line stretch. Speeding up when a fish hits can help keep them on until you can strip in enough line to get it actually tight enough to set the hook.
That is a good observation. I sort of experienced that, but the issue was more the old mustad hooks were not very sharp. A good sharp hook should get in.
 

Wetswinger

Go Deep
Forum Supporter
Point your rod tip down for a straight taught line. Loosen your drag so the tippet won't snap on the take. The straight tight line will have enough tension to hook the fish most times. A shorter 60ft. line enough. When in doubt, slow down and then slow down. Keep your fingers off the line so the reel is free.
 

krusty

We're on the Road to Nowhere...
Forum Supporter
I miss a lot of strikes when paddling my kayak from place with line out and rod sitting in a Scotty holder off to the side. I usually put some of the line between my teeth while doing so.

Doesn't help a bit with missed strikes, but maybe if I wear a Rooster Cogburn eyepatch the trout will respect the John Wayne vibe and cooperate.
 

iveofione

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
Here is something to think about-never troll in a straight line. By trolling in S curves the line will speed up and rise on the outside turns and and slow down and sink on the inside turns. Fish often take just as the line begins to speed up and rise. Try this the next time out and see it you don't notice a different dynamic as the fish is hitting a line that is somewhat sideways in the water as opposed to just a straight line pull.
 

RCF

Life of the Party
I doubt that you are setting too hard. More likely the opposite. Most people put more line out when trolling than casting. Then when a fish hits they have a lot more extra line stretch to deal with. A normal hook set with 100’ of line out and a soft rod will hardly move the fly at all, it’s all absorbed by the rod and the line stretch. Speeding up when a fish hits can help keep them on until you can strip in enough line to get it actually tight enough to set the hook.

I completely agree. I like to keep moving after a strike until I have the fish 'under control' so to speak. As you say 'keep them on' and can set the hook well. By moving also lessens the slack line when/if they start swimming towards you...
 
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