The good boat deal thread

SurfnFish

Legend
Forum Supporter
Buddy's selling this. New price $1000. Good deal? You be the judge!

Nice V hull side console, stainless grab rails, could make for a fine skiff for lakes and bay. If hull is structurally sound, just a matter of sanding down the interior, epoxy prime and paint.
Trophy's are built by Bayliner using two piece construction, molded decking mechanically fastened to molded hull) so important to look for for water intrusion into the hull flotation foam. Carefully inspect the flooring/hull intersections for any cracks/openings, and remove all the access hatches to check the foam itself. Easy fix for saturated floatation foam is strip it out, replace with jammed in pool noodles from the Dollar Store.
Unless running shallow, however (and why would you in a V hull?) would swap the jet out for a prop drive, jets don't troll and are a PIA at slow speed manuvering compared to a prop. Minimally compression test the cylinders to see if the motor justifies any additional expense- and repowering is never cheap. Best would be to tow the boat to a local OB frepair shop in the area and have them check the motor out on your dime. Some older motor are best walked away from.
As to the trailer, simplest way to renew such a trailer is drop the boat on the lawn, see any substantial rust sand the frame, coat with rust convertor, recoat with marine epoxy paint, measure the axle and give Potter Webster a call, they'll match you up with a new bolt on axle/hubs/bearings with new tire/rim combos, trailer will be good years.
All comes down to the labor hours you're willing to put in, the cost to upgrade, and if you will end ujp with the boat you want. A cheap boat is just the starting point for the final cost, good to go.
 

adamcu280

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
Nice V hull side console, stainless grab rails, could make for a fine skiff for lakes and bay. If hull is structurally sound, just a matter of sanding down the interior, epoxy prime and paint.
Trophy's are built by Bayliner using two piece construction, molded decking mechanically fastened to molded hull) so important to look for for water intrusion into the hull flotation foam. Carefully inspect the flooring/hull intersections for any cracks/openings, and remove all the access hatches to check the foam itself. Easy fix for saturated floatation foam is strip it out, replace with jammed in pool noodles from the Dollar Store.
Unless running shallow, however (and why would you in a V hull?) would swap the jet out for a prop drive, jets don't troll and are a PIA at slow speed manuvering compared to a prop. Minimally compression test the cylinders to see if the motor justifies any additional expense- and repowering is never cheap. Best would be to tow the boat to a local OB frepair shop in the area and have them check the motor out on your dime. Some older motor are best walked away from.
As to the trailer, simplest way to renew such a trailer is drop the boat on the lawn, see any substantial rust sand the frame, coat with rust convertor, recoat with marine epoxy paint, measure the axle and give Potter Webster a call, they'll match you up with a new bolt on axle/hubs/bearings with new tire/rim combos, trailer will be good years.
All comes down to the labor hours you're willing to put in, the cost to upgrade, and if you will end ujp with the boat you want. A cheap boat is just the starting point for the final cost, good to go.
All good points! I'm not interested in this boat (now that Grady White... where'd I put that extra $14k?) but I thought somebody might be. :)
 

Buzzy

I prefer to call them strike indicators.
Forum Supporter
Here's a deal for you:

@Engee spent a lot of time setting this boat up, it's ready to go!
 

Old406Kid

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
Marysville...Facebook Marketplace...Crestliner 1040 Jon. 2020 yr. Pedestal seats, oars, trolling motor, hummingbird finder. Only used 4 times.
$950..Wow..
Somebody needs to snatch this up in a hurry!!!
333072641_6064451846951152_1801615779275736094_n.jpg
 
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