Musky/Large Predator Hooks
- Thread starter Kinigit
- Start date
My mentor uses gami spinnerbait hooks almost exclusively, which I believe has an aberdeen bend to it.
I use gami B10S for some stuff, but my preference is the Ahrex Trout Predator Lite (TP605), but I also use the TP610 along with the Ahrex Aberdeen. Usually, I'm going with 4/0 but I do have some smaller flies tied up on 2/0 B10S.
Lately, I've been playing around with tying on shanks with a smaller hook split ringed off the back. I think those are Owner Herring hooks (whichever ones don't have much of an up-turned eye) in a 3/0. But I haven't put enough fish on those yet to really make a judgement one way or another.
If you're after other large predators other than pike or musky (that are ripping line, etc), I wouldn't use the TP series though. That said, I've never bent either out on some pretty damn big tigers.
I use gami B10S for some stuff, but my preference is the Ahrex Trout Predator Lite (TP605), but I also use the TP610 along with the Ahrex Aberdeen. Usually, I'm going with 4/0 but I do have some smaller flies tied up on 2/0 B10S.
Lately, I've been playing around with tying on shanks with a smaller hook split ringed off the back. I think those are Owner Herring hooks (whichever ones don't have much of an up-turned eye) in a 3/0. But I haven't put enough fish on those yet to really make a judgement one way or another.
If you're after other large predators other than pike or musky (that are ripping line, etc), I wouldn't use the TP series though. That said, I've never bent either out on some pretty damn big tigers.
In my limited experience Ahrex PR351 light predator bl is excellent. Also use gami B10s. The Ahrex is barbless and stays sticky sharp after dozens of fish. My largest landed was 44” and that was the last fish of a better than 50 fish day - fly was destroyed, hook was still sticky sharp.
tkww
Steelhead
OOC, why the light over their normal TP predator hook?
The light wire penetrates much easier than heavy wire. I saw no sign of bending, as long as I can keep my fly keeled it’s the way to go. Material placement, and sparseness…
thinner, penetrates better. I've still never bent one out. Another bonus is that when tying, it's easier to maintain a neutrally buoyant fly.
It should be noted, that you shouldn't be afraid to add weight to help keel. Sometimes, that's on the shank up front while tying, other times, it could be on the hook bend after tying and it's just not quite swimming right.
Also, don't skimp on the hooks, even if all you're doing is "practicing". You can always cut off your materials. The last thing I'd want is to have a hook fail when it counts.
Also, don't skimp on the hooks, even if all you're doing is "practicing". You can always cut off your materials. The last thing I'd want is to have a hook fail when it counts.
