Give me your "gotta have" travel trailer advice/gadgets/suggestions...

Brute

Legend
Forum Supporter
So many good suggestions I don't think I really have much to add.

I will say have dedicated stuff just for the trailer. Don't have stuff that you plan to use for other vehicles, trips, etc. You'll always forget to put them back, even with a checklist. Don't ask me how I know.

Onto power, 2 6V batteries wired in works wonders. Onto solar you need to evaluate where you plan to camp. That was a big concern when I was setting up system for my pop-up truck camper. Low light areas, lots of dense canopy, etc. Plus using remote panels wasn't an option thanks to area I'd be camping (possible theft).

My battery system is set up to run 2 weeks and not drop below 12V. I have a volt meter to watch that batteries don't drop that low. I bought them with enough Amp hours to run my CPAP, recharge phones, cameras, and tablets. Run lights. Etc for a minimum 14 days without a recharge. I've went over 18 days and was still sitting around 12.3 V at end of trip. I have a small generator that I can fire up and put a charge on the batteries if I need it.
This is good advice…I have two jeeps, and use to shuttle tools/ recovery gear/ fluids etc between the two until I forgot one item and left it in the other Jeep (my air up/down bag)…not anymore, just bought two of everything and kept them always loaded into the separate rigs…
 

Max Morris

Just Hatched
It has already been mentioned to make sure your tires are in good shape and the manufactures date is relatively recent, good rule of thumb is change your tires every 4-5 years depending upon the amount of use. Once you know your tires are good do yourself a favor and buy a TPMS for your trailer tires. You can find them on Amazon, very cheap insurance that can save you lots of money from the damage of a tire blow out. You do not need a really expensive one.

Second buy wheel/tire covers and use them while storing your trailer. Best thing you can do for your trailer tires while your trailer is sitting is keep them off the dirt/gravel and cover them from UV damage. Again these are cheap and on amazon.

Some have mention a chemical dry air "damprid", these work but I prefer to use the following. This only works if you have the luxury of storing your trailer and plugging it in. It adds a little heat but keeps the air bone dry and no smells.

Just like fishing, it seems like you will spend more in accessories than you did the trailer.

Enjoy your new trailer.
 

TDub

No fish here
Forum Supporter
When we had our single axle trailer we usually camped in places way out in the sticks, invariably not on a level spot. After using blocks for a year or two to drive up on to level things out, I got tired of that and got a set of these. Well worth it, they made getting level a whole lot simpler and less time consuming.
I see like everything else they’ve goten a lot more expensive, but still worth having.
It’s always fun spending other people’s money!

Those are really smart, and would totally be worth it.
 
One other thing, my buddy and I have been towing trailers of one kind or another for a combined 90 + years. In the last couple of years we have each had an incident of the hitch coming off the ball because the hitch tongue got trapped when lowered onto the hitch. Yes we recognize we are idiots, but it happens. Visually check if possible. The good news is keeper chains work.
 

iveofione

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
One other thing, my buddy and I have been towing trailers of one kind or another for a combined 90 + years. In the last couple of years we have each had an incident of the hitch coming off the ball because the hitch tongue got trapped when lowered onto the hitch. Yes we recognize we are idiots, but it happens. Visually check if possible. The good news is keeper chains work.
Always a possibility-especially for newbies. I'm surprised that a couple of WCV's (Wiley Cagey Veterans) could make such a mistake.......
 

Josh

Dead in the water
Staff member
Admin
Best thing you can do for your trailer tires while your trailer is sitting is keep them off the dirt/gravel and cover them from UV damage.
I'm curious what the importance is of keeping the wheels off the dirt/gravel? Do people mean something like setting the trailer up on jack stands to get the wheels completely off the ground? Or just literally not keeping them on dirt gravel? Parking them onto boards or chunks of concrete?
 

Max Morris

Just Hatched
I'm curious what the importance is of keeping the wheels off the dirt/gravel? Do people mean something like setting the trailer up on jack stands to get the wheels completely off the ground? Or just literally not keeping them on dirt gravel? Parking them onto boards or chunks of concrete?
Prolonged periods of time exposed to gravel/dirt can cause dry rot, this can even happen when parked on concrete. The ground is constantly giving off moisture. The best option I have found is to park my trailer on the plastic leveling blocks that allow air flow between the tire and ground. This way moisture cannot build up and accelerate dry rot. Again this is what I do for prolonged storage over the winter, in the summer when I am using my trailer every couple of weeks it is not as important. I also live on the dry side of the mountains so the humidity and ground moisture is much less than the West (wet) side.
 

O clarkii lewisi

Steelhead
Forum Supporter
Good on ya, Josh.
Sometimes the 'gotta have' is the community around you. If you have to camp with other humans, it is great to have good neighbors.
We popped the motor off a boat on a particularly gnarly piece of road that was long miles from any repair shop (and yes bought the motor connector thingys before the next trip). Did not even know the motor was missing till a good dude passed us and let us know - 'um your boat motor is back near that cattle guard'. :oops: He even returned to help us pick up the motor. So, onward to camp with our bummed out spirits. One of our Canadian camp neighbors literally had a traveling shop with him. He and another fella made it their evening goal to fix our busted electronics and prop.
They did so and as some guys and gals do, seemed to enjoy this immensely. We were delighted and grateful that we could use the boat (and motor!) for the trip. So sometimes it is not the gear you have but the gear yer neighbors have. And I've always recalled this and try to return the kindness when possible.
Happy trails in yer rig. 🏕️
 

Skimr

Smolt
Forum Supporter
@Josh here’s my thoughts
1. Go through whole trailer and check screws and any lots to make sure they’re tight. They will loosen. If holes strip out stuff them with toothpicks and glue then put screw back in.
2. Have a dedicated fresh water fill hose (they’re white and safe for human use) and a separate black tank flush hose.
3. I’d recommend checking all your seams a couple times a year. UV and heat is hard on caulk. Ou should also check and see if there are recommendations for certain products to use on your roof. Some roof covers can’t have certain products used on them
4. Some awning styles are not recommended to be used in rain. Check what is recommended for your style
5. Not sure how your spare is attached but do not assume that the nut that holds it to the bracket is the same size as the lug nuts on the trailer.
6. When you get home from a trip make sure to dry out the fridge and leave the doors open. If closed with any moisture you’ll grow mold
7. If you’re headed onto gravel roads make sure you have at least “D” rated tires.
8. If you have a CO2 and propane monitor check the brand and see if it has a “working” life. The one in my lance has a 5 year lifespan and it started beeping right at five years.
9. Be aware that if your black and grey water tanks are aft of the axle and they are full or semi full that it could change your tongue weight (lighten it) and make you more susceptible to sway when traveling at highway speeds.

Enjoy and have a blast
 

Pescaphile

Steelhead
Replace incandescent bulbs with LEDs. You usually don't need to replace the entire fixture, just the bulb. Many fixtures use common automotive bulbs like a 1154. I did this on my boat and the LEDs only draw about 0.1 amp compared about 1 amp for the incandescent variety. You can get LED bulbs cheap from ebay, $2 -$4 per bulb. Mine are now ten years old.

A good battery charger and battery monitor. Victron Energy makes some excellent monitors, some models allow you to monitor everything via bluetooth using a smartphone or tablet.

A solar panel and solar charge controller will keep your batteries "hot" and help minimize using them in partial state of charge, which kills batteries. Really nice to have batteries charging while you're away for the day doing your thing. Six-volt batteries offer the best bang for the buck, if you can fit L16s, you can get 400+ amp-hour capacity from a pair, two good 6v GC2 golf cart batteries will be rated up to about 225 AH.

If you use lead acid batteries, avoid letting your voltage drop below 12.2 volts (50% state of charge), doing so regularly will greatly reduce their life. Solar will help to avoid this and the battery monitor will let you keep track of things.

I agree with Max Morris on the Davis instrument air dryers over the damp aid. These are superior and long lasting, I have three for my boat and they're all about 25-30 years old, still work like a charm and won't spill if you knock it over. The downside, as stated above, is they require power (130 watts).
 

SurfnFish

Legend
Forum Supporter
a cover for the toilet to keep the smell down.
keep several spray bottles of moquito spray in the trailer.
Folding table for outside.
Roll up piece of outdoor carpet for the camp chairs with shoes off.
 

O clarkii lewisi

Steelhead
Forum Supporter
Replace incandescent bulbs with LEDs. You usually don't need to replace the entire fixture, just the bulb. Many fixtures use common automotive bulbs like a 1154. I did this on my boat and the LEDs only draw about 0.1 amp compared about 1 amp for the incandescent variety. You can get LED bulbs cheap from ebay, $2 -$4 per bulb. Mine are now ten years old.

A good battery charger and battery monitor. Victron Energy makes some excellent monitors, some models allow you to monitor everything via bluetooth using a smartphone or tablet.

A solar panel and solar charge controller will keep your batteries "hot" and help minimize using them in partial state of charge, which kills batteries. Really nice to have batteries charging while you're away for the day doing your thing. Six-volt batteries offer the best bang for the buck, if you can fit L16s, you can get 400+ amp-hour capacity from a pair, two good 6v GC2 golf cart batteries will be rated up to about 225 AH.

If you use lead acid batteries, avoid letting your voltage drop below 12.2 volts (50% state of charge), doing so regularly will greatly reduce their life. Solar will help to avoid this and the battery monitor will let you keep track of things.

I agree with Max Morris on the Davis instrument air dryers over the damp aid. These are superior and long lasting, I have three for my boat and they're all about 25-30 years old, still work like a charm and won't spill if you knock it over. The downside, as stated above, is they require power (130 watts).
@Pescaphile
I have a 15' Escape trailer and am running a pair of 6v interstate golf cart batteries. I have a 30 amp post in my trailer camping spot and leave it plugged in all the time. Is this a good way to preserve the batteries, or should I run it on battery occasionally while it is parked. I have heard that the life span of these batteries is about 4 years, does this sound about right? Thank you ! and would like any additional tips on keeping them going. I was lame once and got to boondocking spot with dead batteries. Appreciate the tips.
 

MELinOre

Steelhead
Is this a good way to preserve the batteries, or should I run it on battery occasionally while it is parked. I have heard that the life span of these batteries is about 4 years
The best approach to making your batteries last is to frequently check the water level in them and add distilled water when needed. Well maintained batteries can last beyond 4 years.

The batteries in my camper(12V, Type 24F) are going on their 6th year. I do have the camper plugged into the electric at home when not out camping/fishing.
 
Top