Boat Information/Advice for Beginners

SurfnFish

Legend
Forum Supporter
The new Clack Magnums are tough to row as they have zero centerline rocker to the bow kick. The 85' Mag I restored/customized had moderate rocker and was still an utter barge to row. Sure was bulletproof, however...
skiff.jpg
 

DanielOcean

Steelhead
Forum Supporter
I see the whole "Jack of all trades = master of nothing" thing applies to boats.
 

Salmo_g

Legend
Forum Supporter
Daniel,

My boat is a 16' Lund SSV model powered with a Yamaha 40/30 jet drive. Similar boats for this kind of task are the Smokercraft Alaskan 15' with a small jet drive outboard, a G3, which is similar to the Lowe jonboat you referenced earlier. These are all riveted aluminum boats that are lighter than any of the welded and heavier models of Alumaweld, Willie, North River, and the like. Nothing wrong with those heavier boats, but being heavier they require larger heavier higher HP motors and a larger tow vehicle. I'll note that some people think it's dangerous and irresponsible to run rivers in lightweight riveted boats. That would be true if one is routinely crashing into boulders and driving their boats full speed up onto gravel bars. Personally I think they are rationalizing the expense they made in a heavier boat, which maybe they need for their intended use, or maybe they're just compensating for a small dick. Don't know, don't care. I've had my Lund for 20 years, and the only dent in it was caused by a guy launching his heavier welded boat at a ramp on Baker Lake over 10 years ago. I chose the Lund because I had used them for work where the best care we ever gave them was benign neglect. The rest of the time it was just shy of abuse. So I was sold. There are other good brands, but I didn't look around at all and bought based on prior experience.

Prop or jet drive? I've run prop boats a lot on the Skagit. I also carried spare shear pins in the boat and replaced a couple while pulled up on a gravel bar. It can be done, but even experience gets fooled when the safe spot in the channel changes from one season to the next. I can run the Cowlitz in the winter with a prop, but I mostly fish it in the summer. And there are several spots I run in the summer that no prop drive will navigate, if that makes a difference to you. I run a couple spots at summer low flow that the larger heavier welded sleds don't go, which gives me some less crowded water at that time of the year.

The Clackacraft Powerdrifter that Evan posted is a nice practical boat. It will also cost a great deal more than one of the aluminum counterparts. In case that matters to you.
 

DanielOcean

Steelhead
Forum Supporter
Daniel,

My boat is a 16' Lund SSV model powered with a Yamaha 40/30 jet drive. Similar boats for this kind of task are the Smokercraft Alaskan 15' with a small jet drive outboard, a G3, which is similar to the Lowe jonboat you referenced earlier. These are all riveted aluminum boats that are lighter than any of the welded and heavier models of Alumaweld, Willie, North River, and the like. Nothing wrong with those heavier boats, but being heavier they require larger heavier higher HP motors and a larger tow vehicle. I'll note that some people think it's dangerous and irresponsible to run rivers in lightweight riveted boats. That would be true if one is routinely crashing into boulders and driving their boats full speed up onto gravel bars. Personally I think they are rationalizing the expense they made in a heavier boat, which maybe they need for their intended use, or maybe they're just compensating for a small dick. Don't know, don't care. I've had my Lund for 20 years, and the only dent in it was caused by a guy launching his heavier welded boat at a ramp on Baker Lake over 10 years ago. I chose the Lund because I had used them for work where the best care we ever gave them was benign neglect. The rest of the time it was just shy of abuse. So I was sold. There are other good brands, but I didn't look around at all and bought based on prior experience.

Prop or jet drive? I've run prop boats a lot on the Skagit. I also carried spare shear pins in the boat and replaced a couple while pulled up on a gravel bar. It can be done, but even experience gets fooled when the safe spot in the channel changes from one season to the next. I can run the Cowlitz in the winter with a prop, but I mostly fish it in the summer. And there are several spots I run in the summer that no prop drive will navigate, if that makes a difference to you. I run a couple spots at summer low flow that the larger heavier welded sleds don't go, which gives me some less crowded water at that time of the year.

The Clackacraft Powerdrifter that Evan posted is a nice practical boat. It will also cost a great deal more than one of the aluminum counterparts. In case that matters to you.
Thanks for the info. I did not know that about riveted vs welded. You also wrote everything just as only Salmo can. Thanks for the chuckle.
 

Old406Kid

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
Go for a ride with an experienced boat operator. You can learn how to handle a boat by handling a boat.
View attachment 56613
This is my 20' jet sled. Powered by an older 105 hp Evinrude jet outboard.
I can easily run on plane in 6" of water.
Mind you, get up on plane in deeper water before you get to 6" or less of water.
It has a modified V hull. It's a V hull from the bow (front of boat) to the helm (steering wheel).
From there it transitions to a flat bottom from driver's seat to stern (rear of boat).
It is a very versatile craft.
I do a lot of bass fishing so I have a foot control 67# thrust trolling motor mounted on the bow with which I can fish from the raised deck using both hands and navigate with my foot control motor while slowly stalking bass in the areas bass like to hang out.
View attachment 56614
I like to troll for kokanee and sockeye salmon in summertime. I have a 9.9 hp
4 stroke Johnson outboard mounted on the stern and a swivel seat for comfortable seating while trolling.
2 hand crank downriggers get me down to the 30 to 45 foot range where I find most of the kokanee and sockeye I catch. I remove the downriggers for river fishing, bass and crabbing.
A depthfinder with GPS is very helpful for locating your quarry and marking the spots where you have success for salmon and or crab fishing. Below the arch's indicate a school of sockeye salmon with the horizontal lines being my cannonballs showing as well on the display.

View attachment 56615
View attachment 56609View attachment 56610View attachment 56611View attachment 56612
For crab fishing I fish in 35 to 70' of water and mark waypoints on my depthfinder/GPS so I can locate my pots after soaking them for a few hours or overnight.
View attachment 56616
For me versatility is the key, but that's just me. For the kinds of fishing I do the most this boat serves me well and doesn't cost an arm and leg to maintain.
I've been around boats and boating all my life so the questions you ask are second nature to me, but I understand where you're coming from.
Start by what you wish to be able to do with your boat.
In answer to question #1 in your post.
Don't go too small. If you plan to fish rivers with one other person I recommend absolute minimum 14 feet,
with 16 feet a better choice. More than 2 people 18 feet at least.
My boat is a 20 and I've had two 16 footers prior.
I fish alone frequently or with one other person. Rarely do I fish with 2 others plus myself.
I hope this has been helpful for you.
Feel free to PM me if you have other questions sometimes.
Fish on!
D.O. after much thought and seeing these pictures my thoughts are screw the boat... I think your best bet would be to become @Wanative's friend as soon as possible.:ROFLMAO:
 

RCF

Life of the Party
D.O. after much thought and seeing these pictures my thoughts are screw the boat... I think your best bet would be to become @Wanative's friend as soon as possible.:ROFLMAO:

@Old406Kid - there actually is much more truth to your statement (as you well know).

DO, pay for breakfast, gas, lunch and drinks and dinner at the end of the day. Much cheaper than owning a boat. That way you can test them out, be the primary fisherman, and have a lotta fun too...

Edited: Offer to help clean up the boat and wash it at the end of the day. You will be asked back from then on for sure...
 
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Buzzy

I prefer to call them strike indicators.
Forum Supporter
D.O. after much thought and seeing these pictures my thoughts are screw the boat... I think your best bet would be to become @Wanative's friend as soon as possible.:ROFLMAO:
The Fred @Wanative I know is serious about catching fish, meticulous with his crafting and ties some kick butt flies. Pink lipstick, Fred?
 

Jeff Dodd

Steelhead
Your brain will be consumed by boat thoughts, if it has not already!

Mistakes by new owners:
1. No storage!
2. More boat than their vehicle will safely tow
3. Old outboard and can’t afford to repower the boat

I suggest starting with a lighter, modest boat such as the 16’ Lund or one of the many comparables. Versatile, easy to tow, handles abuse, easy to sell. Inexpensive to repower.

Similarly, a 16’ by 48” modified V Jon, like the Roughneck, is tough and stable. You can run prop or pump. Your outboard looses a lot of power with a pump installed. Something to keep in mind.

Search out some Gregor boats. Welded, lightweight aluminum sleds or V boats. Stable. Lots of them around. Same with Klamath.
 

SurfnFish

Legend
Forum Supporter
Daniel,

hese are all riveted aluminum boats that are lighter than any of the welded and heavier models of Alumaweld, Willie, North River, and the like.
riveted Smokercraft have taken more salmon in Oregon than the sum of all other boats combined, many are well over 30 years old and still banging fish every spring and fall. Ever start getting mild rivet leaks in an aging riveted hull, couple coats of Sea Hawk Tuff Stuff (10mm of epoxy) from the waterline down along with a finish coat, off for another decade.
 

mooseknuckles

Distinguished Degenerate
I have just the boat for you! We have had success running up and down rivers with our Hyde Power Drifter. Ours is set up with an Evinrude E-Tec 90/60 jet, Honda 8.8hp kicker w/Garmin TR-1 Gold, Helix 7 and we recently had Hyde install their UHMW bottom. B46D6CA6-F12F-4ECD-BB2F-F4F8FD1C0A55.jpeg
612B1930-FC83-459E-BB54-511CE44215D2.jpeg57AE2CF4-FD37-4160-88D4-6830E72A218B.jpegD36E8144-1439-4D0E-9E5D-C4DB8D8726D5.jpeg819F8EEF-A4A0-4A74-855D-2A2B7BC0C7C3.jpegB8D3637A-3E0E-4607-B1F6-008B9731BC7B.jpeg61B3A31E-5D78-4765-99D6-DA9D0B6CD449.jpeg

We are replacing the Hyde Power Drifter with a bit longer and wider aluminum vessel as we have outgrown the Hyde and it is available now. I will get the Hyde posted in the proper section soon. Happy boat hunting!
 
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dep

Steelhead
I have just the boat for you! We have had success running up and down rivers with our Hyde Power Drifter. Ours is set up with an Evinrude E-Tec 90/60 jet, Honda 8.8hp kicker w/Garmin TR-1 Gold, Helix 7 and we recently had Hyde install their UHMW bottom. View attachment 56766
View attachment 56767View attachment 56770View attachment 56893View attachment 56894View attachment 56895View attachment 56896

We are replacing the Hyde Power Drifter with a bit longer and wider aluminum vessel as we have outgrown the Hyde and it is available now. I will get the Hyde posted in the proper section soon. Happy boat hunting!
looking forward to seeing this in the classifieds
 
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